A new ice maker that is not working, whether it is in a brand new fridge or is a replacement unit fitted to an old one, is rarely faulty. In a new fridge the usual reasons are time, a water supply that was never opened or connected, and a setting. With a replacement ice maker, the usual reason is that the original fault was never in the ice maker: the water, the temperature or the wiring that stopped the old one stops the new one in exactly the same way.
This guide covers both situations, plus the related one where the ice maker stopped straight after a new water filter was fitted. It gives the waiting times that are normal, the installation mistakes that account for most problems, and a way to test a replacement unit and everything round it before concluding that the part is bad. For a repair, see fridge ice maker repair in Dubai.
SituationMost likely reasonsWhat to do first
Brand new fridge, no iceNot had 24 hours. Ice maker switched off. Water not connected or tap closed. Filter not seated. Demo modeWait, then check the tap, the filter and the settings
New fridge, ice maker makes a few small cubesAir in the line. Low pressure. Kinked supply lineFlush the dispenser. Check the line behind the fridge
Fridge moved to a new homeSupply not reconnected properly, line kinked, different water pressureTrace the water
Replacement ice maker fitted, still no iceThe original fault was water, temperature or wiring. Wrong part. Connector not seated. Fill tube not lined upTest in the order below
Stopped after a new water filterFilter not locked in, wrong filter, air in the line, bypass plug left outReseat the filter. Flush
New undercounter or countertop machineNot levelled or settled, protective packing left in, no water, drain not connected, first cycles discardedFollow the first-use steps
In every one of these, check time, water and settings before anything else. Those three account for the great majority of new-appliance ice complaints.
Makers' instructions are consistent on this: do not expect ice on the first day.
StageTypical timeWhy
Freezer reaching temperature from warmUp to 24 hours, longer when loaded with foodThe whole cabinet, shelves and insulation have to cool
First batch of ice after the freezer is coldA few hoursThe mould itself has to reach its trigger temperature
Bin fullA further 24 hours or moreOne batch every one and a half to three hours
First batches to discardUsually the first two or threeThey carry manufacturing residue and carbon dust from a new filter
Slow clear-ice or sphere makersA day or two for the first piecesSlow by design
Replacement ice maker in a cold freezerA few hours for the first batchThe new unit starts warm and has to cool
If the fridge was delivered lying down or tilted, makers generally ask you to stand it upright for some hours before switching on. Follow the instruction for your model.
Loading a new fridge with a full shop of unfrozen food on day one delays ice by a day.
Opening the freezer repeatedly to look slows it further.
A fridge installed in summer, in a warm kitchen, with warm water in the supply line, is at the slow end of every figure above.
So the first rule is patience. If the freezer is at minus 18 degrees C and a full 24 hours have passed with no ice at all, start checking.
Most new-fridge ice complaints are found at the back of the fridge or on its control panel.
1
Is water connected at all?Look behind the fridge. There should be a thin line from a wall or under-sink tap to the valve at the bottom rear. Delivery teams often position the fridge and leave the plumbing for someone else.
3
Is the line kinked?Pushing the fridge into its space is when it happens. Pull it forward and look.
4
Was the line flushed?New tubing and fittings shed debris. The line should be run into a bucket before it is connected, or the debris ends up in the fridge's inlet screen.
5
Is the filter fitted and locked?New fridges ship with the filter either installed, packed separately, or replaced by a bypass plug. One of them must be in place and fully home.
6
Has the dispenser been purged?Run two to four litres through the water dispenser to push the air out. Sputtering is normal at first.
7
Is the ice maker switched on?On the panel, on the unit's own switch, or with the arm down. Some fridges ship with it off.
8
Is the ice bin seated, and has all packing been removed?Tape, foam blocks and film are used round the ice maker and bin for transport. A strip of tape across the arm or the tray stops everything.
9
Is the fridge in demo mode?Lights and display working, no cooling at all. Common on a fridge that was a shop display model.
10
Is the fridge level and are the doors closing?A fridge leaning forward leaves a door ajar.
FindingFix
No water line at allHave one installed. A fridge with an ice maker and no supply cannot make ice, unless it is a manual-fill tank model
Water line connected to hotMove it to cold
Fed from a reverse-osmosis or under-sink purifierPressure may be too low. Feed from the cold mains or add a suitable booster
Saddle valve fittedThese restrict flow. A proper tee and isolation valve is better
Push-fit connector weepingTube not cut square or not pushed fully in. Remake it
If your new fridge has an ice maker and the installation leaflet shows no water connection, it has a refillable tank in the fresh food section.
Fill the tank with drinking water to its mark.
Push it fully into its dock until it seats. A tank that is slightly out does not feed.
Expect the first ice after the freezer has reached temperature, and discard the first batches.
Refill when the indicator or the empty tank tells you. The ice maker stops when it runs dry.
Demo mode and other settings
ModeHow it showsEffectHow to leave it
Demo, showroom or display modeLights and display on. OF OF, OFF, or similar on some panels. No cooling, no compressor soundNothing gets coldA button combination in the manual, usually two buttons held for several seconds
Ice OffIcon or light on the panelIce maker disabledPress or hold the ice button
Ice maker power switchRocker on the unit at OIce maker disabledSet to I
Shut-off arm upWire arm latched in the raised positionIce maker stoppedLower it
Child or control lockPadlock iconButtons and dispenser disabledHold the lock button about three seconds
Sabbath or holiday modeAn icon or codeLights, ice or defrost alteredCancel as the manual describes
Fast-ice or boost not selectedNo effect on whether it worksOnly speedOptional
Demo mode catches people because the fridge looks alive. If a new fridge has been on for a day and the inside is at room temperature with every light working, that is what it is.
CauseSignFix
Air in the supply lineSputtering dispenser, first cubes small or hollowPurge more water. It clears within a day
Kinked or crushed lineWeak dispenser flowRe-route or replace
Low building pressureWeak flow at all taps, or at certain timesBooster, or building maintenance
Debris in the fridge's inlet screenGood flow at the line, weak inside the fridgeTechnician: inlet valve
Fed through a purifierSlow dispenserFeed from the mains cold supply
Filter clogged within weeksSediment from new plumbing or a dirty tankReplace, and flush the line
Freezer not yet at temperatureSoft ice creamWait
Makers commonly give a minimum supply pressure of about 20 psi, or 1.4 bar, for the valve to fill the mould properly. If a previous fridge in the same spot made poor ice too, pressure is the likely reason. More in our guide to an ice maker not filling with water.
Ice makers are replaced more often than they fail. A unit that is not making ice looks faulty, and swapping it is easy, so it is swapped. If the real cause was elsewhere, the new one sits there doing the same nothing.
Real causeWhat the old ice maker didWhat the new one does
Freezer warmer than about minus 15 degrees CNever cycledNever cycles
No water: filter, supply, frozen fill tubeCycled dry, or stalledThe same
Inlet valve failedNo fillNo fill
No power at the connector: wiring, door hinge loom, control boardDeadDead
Bin not seated or its switch faultyHeld offHeld off
Air leak into an in-door ice compartmentFrosted upFrosts up within weeks
Fridge's control not sending the run signalIdleIdle
So before deciding the replacement is faulty, go back to basics. A new ice maker needs the same four things as any other: cold, water, power and a signal that the bin is not full.
1
Give it timeA unit fitted warm needs a few hours in a cold freezer before its first cycle.
2
Measure the freezer temperature near the ice makerIt must be at about minus 18 degrees C. If it is not, that is the fault, and the old ice maker was probably fine.
3
Check it is switched onA replacement often arrives with its switch off or its arm in the raised transport position.
4
Check the bin and any cover are fittedAnd that the bin sensor is not blocked.
5
Check the connectorWith the fridge unplugged, make sure the plug is fully home and latched. On some fridges it is easy to leave a millimetre out, or to trap a wire.
6
Check the fill tubeThe spout must sit in the new ice maker's fill cup, not behind or beside it. On a replacement, this is the commonest fitting mistake. Look for ice in the tube as well.
7
Run one test cyclePress and hold the test button if it has one, or switch off and on. Put a towel underneath.
8
Watch what happensSee the table.
Test resultMeaning
Cycles and fillsThe unit is good. Allow a day
Cycles, no waterFill fault: tube frozen or misaligned, valve, filter, supply. Not the ice maker
Water arrives and misses the mouldFill tube or cup not lined up
Does not cycle, no soundNo power at the connector, or the unit is not compatible. Possibly a faulty part
Cycles on test, never by itselfFreezer too warm for the unit to trigger, or the bin signal reading full
Mould overfillsWrong unit, or the fill needs adjusting
If the test runs and water arrives, stop there and wait. Pressing the test again floods the mould.
Ice makers look alike and are not interchangeable. Fridge makers change the unit between production runs of the same model, and a part chosen by appearance or by the model name alone is often wrong.
MismatchWhat you see
Different connector or pin layoutWill not plug in, or plugs in and does nothing
Different fill positionWater misses the mould or sprays behind it
Different mountingSits crooked, bin will not fit, arm fouls the bin
Different control typeThe fridge's board and the ice maker do not understand each other. No cycle
Different fill volumeOverfilled or underfilled mould
Universal or copy partWorks for a while, cubes stick, sensor unreliable
The correct part is identified from the fridge's full model number and its serial number, both on the rating label inside the fridge.
Compare the old and new units side by side. connector, mounting holes, fill cup position and arm or sensor type.
Keep the old unit until the new one has made ice for a week.
A unit bought online by description is the commonest source of a wrong part.
We fit genuine assemblies matched to the model and serial number.
Wiring, connectors and the door hinge
An ice maker needs power and, on electronic types, a data connection to the fridge's control board. If the old unit was dead for that reason, so is the new one.
FaultSignWho
Connector not latchedWorks if pressed, or not at allYou, with the fridge unplugged
Pin pushed back in the plugOne function missingTechnician
Wire broken at the door hingeOn in-door ice makers. Dispenser may also be intermittentTechnician
Corroded connectorGreen or white deposit, in a compartment that has frosted and thawedTechnician
Fuse or relay on the control boardNo power at the connectorTechnician
Door switch not registering closedIce maker and dispenser both held offTechnician
Checking for supply at the ice maker's connector takes a technician a couple of minutes with a meter and settles whether the unit or the fridge is at fault. It is the test that should have been done before the first replacement was ordered.
An ice maker that worked until the filter was changed has not broken. Something about the new filter is stopping the water.
CauseSignFix
Filter not fully locked inNo water at the dispenser eitherRemove it and refit, turning or pushing until it stops firmly
Wrong filter for the modelWill not turn home, leaks, or blocks all flowFit the correct type
Protective cap left on the new filterNo flowRemove it
Poor-quality copy filterWeak flow, leakingFit a genuine one
Air trapped in the lineSputtering. First fills fail or are smallRun two to four litres through the dispenser
O-ring rolled or cut during fittingLeak at the filter housingNew filter
Old filter's O-ring left behind in the housingNew filter will not seatRemove it
Housing cracked by forcingLeak, low flowTechnician
1
Press the water dispenserIf there is no flow, the filter is the cause.
2
Remove the new filter and fit the bypass plug, or the old filterIf the flow returns, the new filter is at fault or is not seating.
3
Refit the new filter carefullyAnd purge.
4
Reset the filter indicatorUsually by holding its button for three seconds.
Give the ice maker a few hours after the water is flowing again. Discard the first two or three batches, which can carry grey carbon dust from the new cartridge. That dust is harmless.
Check the supply line was reconnected to the cold supply, the tap is open and the line is not kinked.
If the line was replaced, check it was flushed first.
Let the fridge stand upright for the time the maker advises before switching on, if it was laid down.
Check it is level in its new position and the doors close by themselves.
Check the ice maker's switch and arm. They get knocked in transit.
Check the ice bin, shelves and any transit screws or clips are back as they should be.
Expect different results if the new home has lower water pressure, or the fridge is now in a warmer spot.
Allow 24 hours before judging.
New undercounter, countertop and commercial machines
MachineFirst-use requirementIf missed
UndercounterLevel. Front grille clear. Water line flushed and connected. Drain connected with fall, or drain pump plugged in. Left to stand before switching on if it was tiltedNo ice, water on the floor, overheating
UndercounterCleaning cycle run before first use, where the manual asks for it. First batches discardedOff-taste
CountertopStood upright for a few hours. Packing removed from the tray and basket area. Tank rinsed. Cold drinking water, not distilledNo ice, Add Water light, plastic taste
CommercialInstalled with the clearances in the manual, a filter sized for the machine, separate drains with an air gap, a dedicated circuit, and commissioning with timed cyclesLow output, repeated shutdowns
AnyFirst few cycles are slow while the machine cools downMistaken for a fault
A new commercial machine that underperforms from day one almost always has an installation problem: air, water or drainage. See commercial ice machine not making ice and portable and countertop ice makers.
Warranty: what to do and what not to do
A new fridge or machine is under its maker's warranty. If you have checked time, water and settings and it still makes no ice, contact the maker or the retailer first.
Do not dismantle the ice maker or the back of a new fridge. That can affect the warranty.
Keep the delivery note and the purchase invoice. Note the date you reported the fault.
Installation faults, such as no water supply, a kinked line or low pressure, are generally not warranty faults. It is worth ruling them out before the maker's technician arrives.
A replacement part bought separately has its own warranty from the seller. Keep its packaging and the old part.
A repair we carry out has one month's cover on parts and labour.
If the fridge is out of warranty, or the fault turns out to be in the water supply or the installation and not the appliance, that is where we come in.
Do not order a second replacement ice maker before testing temperature, water and power.
Do not press the test button repeatedly.
Do not force a filter that will not turn.
Do not leave a new supply line unflushed.
Do not run a new fridge long-term without its filter or bypass plug.
Do not judge a new fridge's ice maker on its first day.
Do not chip at ice in a fill tube or mould.
A new fridge has had 24 hours at minus 18, water is connected and purged, the ice maker is on, and there is still no ice. If it is under warranty, call the maker.
A replacement ice maker will not run a test cycle, with the freezer cold and the unit switched on.
The test runs and no water arrives, with the dispenser working and the fill tube lined up and clear.
There is no supply pressure to speak of at the fridge.
There is a leak at the filter housing, the valve or the supply line.
The freezer will not reach temperature.
You need a water line installed for a fridge that has none.
Our diagnostic visit is AED 100 plus VAT, with a fixed price before any work. Tell us whether the fridge or the ice maker is new, what has been replaced already, the freezer temperature and whether the water dispenser works. See fridge ice maker repair in Dubai.
Why is my new fridge not making ice?
+
It needs up to 24 hours to cool and make its first ice. After that, check the water is connected and the tap open, the filter is seated, the ice maker is switched on and the fridge is not in demo mode.
How long does a new ice maker take to make ice?
+
A few hours for the first batch once the freezer is at minus 18 degrees C, and about a day to fill the bin.
I replaced my ice maker and it still does not work. Why?
+
The original fault was probably not the ice maker. Check the freezer temperature, the water supply and fill tube, and whether power is reaching the connector. The part may also be the wrong one.
Why did my ice maker stop after I changed the water filter?
+
The filter is not fully locked in, is the wrong type, or has left air in the line. Reseat it and run several litres through the dispenser.
Do I need to do anything to start a new ice maker?
+
Remove all packing, connect and purge the water, switch the ice maker on and wait. Discard the first two or three batches.
Why are the first ice cubes small or cloudy?
+
Air in the line and carbon dust from a new filter. Both clear after a few batches.
How do I test a replacement ice maker?
+
With the freezer cold and a towel underneath, press and hold its test button once, or switch it off and on, and watch for the cycle and the fill.
The new ice maker cycles and gets no water. Is it faulty?
+
No. That is a fill fault: the tube is frozen or misaligned, or the valve, filter or supply is at fault.
How do I know I have the right replacement part?
+
It must be matched to the fridge's full model and serial number, and its connector, mounting and fill position must match the old unit.
What is demo mode?
+
A showroom setting in which the lights and display work and the fridge does not cool. The manual gives the buttons that cancel it.
Is a new ice maker covered by warranty?
+
In a new fridge, yes, by the maker. Installation and water-supply problems generally are not.
Who can sort out a new or replaced ice maker in Dubai?
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One Click Dubai sends a technician the same day. Call or WhatsApp +971 55 209 9785.
Cold freezer, water on, new unit still idle?A technician can find the cause on site. The diagnostic is AED 100 plus VAT, and repairs carry a 1-month warranty.
