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AC Not Cooling: 12 Causes, and What to Check First

Seven checks you can do in ten minutes, then a way to find the cause from what the indoor and outdoor units are doing.

17 min readSplit, inverter, central, window and chilled-water unitsDiagnosis table by symptomReviewed by Abdul Suboor, Lead EngineerUpdated October 2026
AC Not Cooling: 12 Causes, and What to Check First

Overview

An AC not cooling, whether a split air conditioner at home or a central aircon in an office, has one of twelve causes, and seven of them can be checked in ten minutes without tools. Dirty filters, a blocked outdoor unit and a wrong setting account for a large share of cases. The rest are failed parts: a capacitor, a fan motor, a sensor, a control board, a gas leak or the compressor.

This guide starts with the checks you can do yourself, then helps you find the cause from what the air conditioner is doing: running but not cooling, blowing warm air, blowing no air, or sitting silent outside. It ends with what each repair costs in Dubai.

AC not cooling: the short answer

If your AC has stopped cooling, suddenly or little by little, these are the causes in the order worth checking. The first five cost nothing to put right.

1
Wrong mode or setting

Fan or Dry mode, or a set temperature above the room temperature.

2
Dirty filters

Blocked filters cut the airflow and can freeze the coil.

3
Blocked or dirty outdoor unit

It cannot shed heat, so the unit cools weakly or cuts out.

4
Tripped breaker or isolator off

The indoor unit may run on a separate supply while the outdoor unit has none.

5
Ice on the coil

From poor airflow or low gas.

6
Failed capacitor or contactor

The outdoor fan or compressor cannot start.

7
Failed fan motor

Indoor or outdoor.

8
Low gas from a leak

Cooling fades over days or weeks.

9
Faulty sensor or thermostat

The unit misreads the room and stops early.

10
Control board fault

Outdoor unit gets no signal, or the unit shows an error code.

11
Dirty coils

Indoor or outdoor, coated beyond what a filter wash can help.

12
Compressor failure

The least common and the most expensive.

Why is the AC not cooling in your case? The table further down matches what you can see and hear to the likely cause.

Seven checks to do before you call

These seven checks take about ten minutes and settle many AC cooling problems without a visit. To troubleshoot an air conditioner safely, stay outside the casing: look, listen and feel, and leave the covers on.

1
Mode and temperature

Set Cool, shown as a snowflake, and a temperature at least three degrees below the room. Fan mode moves air without cooling it. Dry mode cools only a little.

2
Remote and timer

Fit fresh batteries and point the remote at the unit from close range. Cancel any timer or sleep setting, and check the unit beeps when you change the temperature.

3
Filters

Lift the front panel and slide the mesh filters out. If you cannot see light through them, wash them, dry them and refit them. On a central system, the filter sits behind the large return grille.

4
Airflow at the indoor unit

Hold a hand at the outlet. Strong flow of barely cool air is one problem. Weak flow is another. Note which.

5
The outdoor unit

Go and look. The fan should spin, you should hear the deeper hum of the compressor, and the air blowing out should feel hot. Clear away anything standing against it.

6
Breaker and isolator

Find the AC breaker in the distribution board and the isolator switch near the outdoor unit. Reset a tripped breaker once. If it trips again, leave it off.

7
Ice

Look at the coil behind the filters and at the thin copper pipe outdoors. If there is frost or ice, switch to Fan mode for half an hour before anything else.

A temperature check that tells you a lot

With the unit in Cool for fifteen minutes, hold a kitchen thermometer in the air leaving the outlet, then at the intake where room air enters. A healthy split AC blows air about 8 to 12°C colder than the air it takes in. A difference of 4 or 5°C means the unit is running but not cooling properly. A normal difference with a warm room means the unit is working and the load is too much for it.

What not to do

Do not open the outdoor unit. Its capacitor holds a charge after the power is off.
Do not keep resetting a breaker that trips.
Do not push a stalled fan with a stick while the power is on.
Do not hose the indoor unit.

Find the cause by what the AC is doing

What the unit does when you switch it on narrows twelve causes to two or three. Check the indoor unit and the outdoor unit separately, then find your row.

Indoor unitOutdoor unitMost likely causeSection below
Fan runs, air barely coolFan and compressor both runningLow gas, dirty coils, or heat overloadRunning but not cooling
Fan runs, air warmSilent, nothing runningNo power outdoors, contactor, board or wiring faultOutdoor unit not working
Fan runs, air warmFan spins, no compressor humCapacitor, or compressor faultOutdoor unit not working
Fan runs, air warmHumming or buzzing, fan stillOutdoor fan motor or its capacitor. Switch offOutdoor unit not working
Fan runs, air cool then warm, in cyclesStarts and stops every few minutesOverheating outdoor unit, dirty condenser, sensor faultNot cooling enough
Very weak air, may be very coldRunningBlocked filter, iced coil, indoor fan faultNot blowing air
No air at all, lights onMay be runningIndoor fan motor or its capacitor, or the boardNot blowing air
Ice visible on the coilRunningAirflow or low gasIce on the coil
Flashing light or error codeUsually offA fault the unit has detected itselfRead the code in the manual, then book
AC not turning on: dead, no lights, no beepOffNo power, or indoor board faultCheck breaker, then book
Cools well at night, poorly from noon to 5pmRunning constantlyHeat load, dirty condenser, or an undersized unitNot cooling enough
One room warm, others fine, on a central systemRunningDuct, damper or zone faultOne room not cooling

AC running but not cooling

When an AC is running but not cooling, with the indoor fan blowing and the outdoor unit working, the refrigeration circuit is moving too little heat. The causes, in order of likelihood, are dirty coils, low gas from a leak, an outdoor unit that cannot shed heat, and a worn compressor.

CauseHow to tellFix
Dirty indoor coilWeak airflow even with clean filters, musty smell, no service for a yearDeep clean
Dirty outdoor coilFins matted with dust. Cooling worst in the afternoonOutdoor coil washed
Low gasCooling faded gradually. Thin copper pipe frosted. Thick pipe not coldLeak found and repaired, gas weighed in
Outdoor unit boxed in or in a hot shaftHot air cannot escape. Unit cuts out on hot daysClear the space, or move the unit
Reversing valve stuck, on heat-and-cool modelsUnit heats when set to coolValve or its coil replaced
Worn compressorOutdoor unit runs, pressures nearly equal on both sides, air not coldCompressor replaced, or the unit

Split AC not cooling but fan is running

This is the commonest description we hear, and it covers two different faults. If the fan you mean is the indoor one, go outside and check the outdoor unit: when it is silent, the fault is electrical and is covered in the outdoor unit section below. If both units are running, the cause is in the table above.

Low gas is suspected far more often than it is found. Our AC gas refill page explains how to tell, and why a unit that needs gas has a leak that must be repaired.

AC blowing warm or hot air

An air conditioner blowing warm air indoors means the compressor is not running, or the unit is not in cooling mode. The indoor fan simply recirculates room air. An AC blowing hot air, hotter than the room, is in heating mode or has a stuck reversing valve.

Room-temperature air, outdoor unit silent. the outdoor unit has no power or no signal. Check the breaker and the isolator.
Room-temperature air, outdoor fan running but no hum. the compressor is not starting. Usually the capacitor.
Warm air after a power cut. many units wait three to five minutes before restarting the compressor. Give it ten minutes. If nothing changes, a surge may have damaged the board or the capacitor.
Hot air. check the remote is on Cool, shown as a snowflake, and not Heat, shown as a sun. On Auto, some units choose heating on a cool morning.
Hot air blowing from the outdoor unit. normal. That is the heat taken from your room.

Warm air for the first minute after start-up is normal on some models, while the compressor builds pressure.

Outdoor unit or compressor not working

When the outdoor unit is not working, the indoor unit blows air that is not cold. The cause is usually a small electrical part: the capacitor, the contactor, a fuse, or the cable between the two units. An AC compressor not working is far more often a compressor that cannot start than one that has failed.

What you see and hear outsideLikely causeWhat the technician does
Nothing at allTripped breaker, isolator off, blown fuse, broken cable between units, outdoor board faultChecks supply voltage at the unit, then the signal from indoors
A click, then nothingContactor pulling in with no power behind it, or a compressor that will not startTests the contactor and capacitor, then the compressor windings
Fan spins, no compressor humCompressor capacitor failed, overload tripped, or compressor faultMeasures the capacitor. Tests the compressor's current and windings
Hum or buzz, fan not spinningFan capacitor or fan motor failedReplaces the capacitor or motor. Switch off until then
Starts, runs a minute, cuts outOverheating, high pressure from a dirty coil, or a failing compressorCleans the coil, measures pressures and current
Breaker trips the moment it startsShorted compressor or motor, or damaged wiringInsulation test on each part
Inverter unit: outdoor unit silent, error code indoorsInverter board, sensor or communication faultReads the code, tests the board and sensors

The capacitor: small part, common fault

A capacitor gives the compressor and the fan motors the push they need to start. Heat ages it, and Dubai's summers are hard on capacitors. A swollen or weak one is among the cheapest AC repairs and one of the most frequent. If you are told the compressor is dead, ask whether the capacitor and contactor were tested first.

When to switch off straight away

The outdoor unit buzzes and its fan is still.
You smell burning.
The unit starts and stops every few seconds.

Each of these can turn a small repair into a compressor replacement within minutes of running.

AC not blowing air, or weak airflow

An AC not blowing air, or blowing weakly, has an airflow fault and not a cooling fault. The air that does come out is often very cold. The causes are a blocked filter, an iced coil, a fan barrel packed with dust, a failed indoor fan motor, or, on a central system, a duct problem.

Weak air, filters dirty. wash them. This alone fixes many cases.
Weak air, filters clean, unit not serviced for a year. the fan barrel and coil are clogged. Book a deep clean. See AC cleaning.
Airflow fades over an hour, then water drips. the coil is icing.
No air, but you hear the compressor outside. the indoor fan motor or its capacitor has failed. Switch off, because the coil will freeze solid.
No air and the louvre does not open. the unit has not started. Look for a flashing light.
Central AC, weak air at every vent. return filter blocked or blower fault. Weak at one vent: a crushed or disconnected duct.

An AC not blowing cold air and an AC not blowing air at all are different faults. Tell the technician which one you have.

Ice on the coil and not cooling

An AC freezing up and not cooling has either too little air crossing the coil or too little gas inside it. Both make the coil colder than freezing. Ice then blocks the fins, airflow drops further, and cooling stops.

1
Thaw it

Run Fan mode for thirty minutes to an hour, with a towel below the unit.

2
Wash the filters

And check nothing blocks the intake or the outlet.

3
Restart at 24°C

With a medium or high fan speed.

4
Watch for a day

If ice returns with clean filters, the coil is clogged or the gas is low.

Melting ice often overflows the drain pan. If water has started dripping, our guide to an AC leaking water explains what to do.

AC not cooling enough in the afternoon heat

An AC not cooling enough, one that cools well at night and struggles from noon to five, may be faulty, or may simply be at its limit. Air conditioners sold in the Gulf are rated at an outdoor temperature of 46°C. Above that their capacity falls, and on the hottest afternoons a healthy unit may hold a sunlit room at 25 or 26°C and no lower.

Signs it is the heat, not a fault

The temperature check shows air 8 to 12°C colder at the outlet than at the intake.
The unit runs steadily without cutting out.
Cooling is fine after sunset.
The room faces west, is on the top floor, or has large unshaded windows.

Signs it is a fault

The temperature difference is under 6°C.
The outdoor unit cuts out and restarts on hot afternoons.
It cooled this room properly last summer and does not now.
The outdoor coil is visibly matted with dust.

What helps on the hottest days

Close curtains or blinds on sunlit windows before noon. This makes the biggest difference.
Set 24°C and leave it. Setting 18°C does not cool faster, and the unit only runs longer.
Start cooling before the room heats up, not after.
Keep doors closed, and the kitchen door above all.
Have the outdoor coil washed before summer.
Give the outdoor unit shade and free air. Do not box it in.

If the unit has never held the room in summer, it may be too small. The sizing table on our AC installation page shows what a room of each size needs.

Not cooling after a service, gas refill, power cut or installation

When an AC stops cooling straight after something was done to it, that event is usually the cause. The table sets out the likely reason in each case, and who should put it right.

It stopped cooling afterLikely reasonWhat to do
A service or cleaningWater on the control board or a sensor, a sensor left unclipped, a connector not refitted, or a fan barrel refitted looseCall the company that did the work. It should return without charge
A gas refillThe leak was not repaired and the gas has escaped again, or the unit was overchargedAsk for a leak test and for the charge to be weighed
A power cut or voltage dipCompressor restart delay, tripped breaker, or surge damage to the board or capacitorWait ten minutes, check the breaker, then book
A new installationLeaking flare joint, no vacuum, kinked pipe, or service valves left closedCall the installer. This is an installation fault, not a faulty unit
RelocationGas lost during dismantling, or a longer pipe run with no added gasLeak test and correct charge
A long time switched offSeized fan motor, weak capacitor, dust-matted coils, pests in the outdoor unitService before the first long run
Painting or building workFilters and coil clogged with fine dust, or the outdoor unit covered and forgottenDeep clean. Remove the covers
A filter changeFilter fitted the wrong way round, or not seated, so the panel switch stays openRefit the filter and close the panel firmly

A new AC not cooling within its first weeks is covered by the installer's warranty for the fitting and the maker's warranty for the unit. Report it at once and in writing.

By type: split, inverter, central, window, portable and chilled water

The same causes apply to every type of air conditioning and HVAC system, but each type has faults of its own. Start with the one you have.

TypeCheck firstFault specific to this type
Wall splitFilters, outdoor unit running, iceLeaking flare joints. Sensor clipped to the coil coming loose
Inverter ACError code on the display, outdoor unit runningInverter board and sensor faults. The outdoor unit ramps up slowly, which is normal
Central or ducted ACReturn air filter, thermostat setting and batteries, all vents openBlower belt or motor, duct leaks, zone dampers, a float switch that has stopped the unit because the drain pan is full
CassetteFilter behind the grille, error lightDrain pump fault that stops the unit
Window ACFilter, thermostat knob, coils front and backBoth coils clog with no service access. Fan motor drives two fans at once
Portable ACExhaust hose connected and short, window sealed, tank not fullA single-hose unit pulls hot air into the room, so cooling is limited by design
Chilled-water fan coil unitThermostat, filter, whether neighbours also have no coolingA stuck chilled-water valve or actuator, or the building's supply. There is no gas and no compressor in the flat

Flats on district cooling

Many Dubai towers cool each flat with chilled water from a central plant. If the fan blows and the air is not cold, the valve that lets chilled water into your unit has probably stuck shut, or the thermostat is not opening it. If neighbours have the same problem, it is the building's supply, and the building management or the cooling provider has to act. We repair the fan coil unit, its valve, actuator and thermostat.

One room not cooling

When one room stays warm while the rest of the home is cool, the cause depends on the system. With a split unit per room, that room's unit has a fault, so apply this guide to it. With a central system, the unit is fine and the air is not reaching the room.

The vent is closed, or furniture or a curtain covers it.
The duct to that room is crushed, disconnected or leaking above the ceiling.
A damper on that branch is shut.
The room is at the end of the longest duct run and gets the least air.
The room has the most sun or the largest windows, and needs more air than it was given.
Upstairs rooms are warmer than downstairs. heat rises, and the roof adds its own load.

Duct faults are found with a camera and an airflow check at each vent. See AC duct cleaning for duct inspection and repair.

What you can fix yourself, and what needs a technician

You can change settings, wash filters, clear the outdoor unit, reset a breaker once, and thaw ice. Everything inside the casing, and anything involving gas or mains wiring, needs a technician with a meter and gauges.

You can doLeave to a technician
Set Cool and 24°C, replace remote batteriesTesting or replacing a capacitor, contactor or fan motor
Wash the filtersChecking gas pressure, finding a leak, adding gas
Clear space round the outdoor unitWashing the coils and fan barrel
Reset a tripped breaker onceTracing why a breaker trips
Thaw ice in Fan modeFinding why ice returns
Close curtains and doorsControl board and sensor faults
Take the temperature differenceAnything on a chilled-water valve or the unit above a ceiling

AC not cooling repair cost in Dubai

An AC not cooling repair in Dubai costs from AED 150 for a capacitor to AED 3,800 for a compressor, depending on the part. Our diagnostic visit is AED 100 plus VAT. The ranges below are 2026 market prices published by companies in the city, before VAT, and are not our fixed price list.

RepairTypical Dubai market range (AED)
Diagnostic visit100 to 200
Capacitor150 to 350
Contactor200 to 400
Thermostat or sensor150 to 650
Fan motor, indoor or outdoor300 to 1,100
Standard clean150 to 350
Deep clean of coils and fan250 to 600
Gas leak repair with refill350 to 1,100
Control board (PCB)400 to 1,600
Compressor1,200 to 3,800

Most not-cooling repairs fall in the first seven rows. The technician tells you the cause and the price before starting.

Repair or replace?

Repair an AC when the unit is under about eight years old and the fault is a capacitor, motor, sensor, board or a leak at a joint. Consider replacing it when it is around ten years old and needs a compressor or a coil, or when it runs on R22 gas.

DEWA gives ten years as the optimal lifespan of an air conditioner. The age-by-age table on our AC repair page sets out the choice in more detail.

How to keep it cooling through summer

Most summer breakdowns are prevented by a service before the heat arrives and clean filters through the season.

Wash the filters every month from April to October.
Have each unit serviced in March or April, with both coils cleaned and the capacitor tested. See AC service and maintenance.
Keep a clear metre of space in front of the outdoor unit.
Set 24°C and leave it there.
Act on early signs. a longer time to cool, a new noise, a unit that cuts out. They are cheaper to fix in May than in August.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my AC running but not cooling the house or apartment?

With both units running, the usual causes are dirty coils, low gas from a leak, or an outdoor unit that cannot shed heat. If the outdoor unit is silent, the fault is electrical.

Should I switch the AC off if it is not cooling?

Yes, if there is ice, a buzzing outdoor unit, a burning smell or rapid starting and stopping. Otherwise you can leave it in Fan mode while you wait.

Does not cooling always mean low gas?

No. Filters, coils and capacitors are more common causes. Gas is low only if it has leaked.

How long should an AC take to cool a room?

A correctly sized unit brings a closed bedroom to 24°C in about fifteen to thirty minutes. Much longer than that points to a fault, a heat problem or a unit that is too small.

Is the fault different on LG, Samsung, Daikin, Mitsubishi, Gree, Midea, Panasonic, O General, Haier, Hitachi or Carrier units?

The causes are the same on every brand. What differs is the error code, which the model's manual explains.

Why does my inverter AC cool slowly?

An inverter unit ramps its compressor up and down, so it can feel gentler than a fixed-speed unit. If it never reaches the set temperature, check for an error code and have the pressures tested.

My AC cools in the morning and not in the afternoon. Is it faulty?

Take the temperature difference at the unit. If it is 8°C or more, the unit is working and the room's heat load is the problem. If it is less, book a check.

Can a dirty filter really stop an AC cooling?

Yes. It cuts the airflow, the coil ices over, and the unit blows almost nothing.

Book an AC repair

If the seven checks have not brought the cooling back, book AC repair through the online form, by WhatsApp or on +971 55 209 9785. Tell us what the indoor and outdoor units are doing, whether there is ice, and any code on the display.

We come the same day, and within the hour for emergencies.

Still not cooling?

A technician can find the cause on site. The diagnostic is AED 100 plus VAT, and repairs carry a 1-month warranty.

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