To clean a washing machine, do five things: run a hot empty wash with a washing machine cleaner, wipe and dry the door seal, wash the detergent drawer and the recess it slides into, clear the pump filter, and wipe the outside. Done once a month, it takes about 40 minutes, most of which is the machine running by itself.
A washing machine cleans clothes and not itself. Detergent, fabric softener, body oils, lint and minerals from the water collect in the places water does not flush hard: behind the drum, in the folds of the door seal, in the drawer and in the pump. Modern low-temperature washing makes it worse, because the residue is never melted away. The result is smells, grey marks on laundry, black mould (also spelled mold) and mildew on the seal, and in time blocked pumps and failed bearings.
This guide gives the monthly routine step by step for front load and top load machines of every make, from Samsung, LG, Bosch and Whirlpool to Beko, Hotpoint, Indesit, Electrolux, Haier and Panasonic, explains which cleaners to use and which to avoid, deals with smells, mould and scale, and says when cleaning is not enough.
StepWhat to doTimeHow often
1. Drum and tubRun the hottest empty programme, or the machine's own drum clean programme, with a washing machine cleaner5 minutes of your time, 1 to 2 hours runningMonthly
2. Door sealWipe all round the rubber, inside the fold, and the door glass. Dry it5 minutesWeekly wipe, monthly clean
3. Detergent drawerPull it out, wash it, and scrub the recess including its roof10 minutesMonthly
4. Pump filterDrain, unscrew, clean, refit10 minutesEvery one to two months
5. Inlet filterClean the mesh where the hose joins the machine10 minutesYearly
6. Outside and controlsDamp cloth. No sprays on the panel5 minutesMonthly
7. After every washLeave the door and drawer ajar. Remove laundry promptlyNoneAlways
Do the seal, drawer and filter first, then run the hot wash last. That way the hot cycle flushes away what you have loosened.
Understanding where the dirt comes from tells you where to clean and how to stop it building.
DepositWhere it comes fromWhere it collectsWhat it causes
Detergent and softener residueUsing more than the load needs, and washing coolOuter tub, behind the drum, drawer, hosesGrey sludge, smells, foam, sticky drawer
Biofilm and mouldBacteria and fungi feeding on residue in a warm, damp machineDoor seal, drawer recess, tubMusty smell, black spots, slime
Body oils and soilThe laundryTub and sealSour smell, greasy film
Lint, hair and fibresThe laundry, petsDoor seal fold, pump filter, drain hoseSlow draining, blockages
Limescale and mineralsThe water supply and its storageHeating element, tub, inlet filterRough deposits, slower heating, element failure
Foreign objectsPocketsSeal fold, filter, behind the drumNoise, blockages, torn seals
Cool washes. Programmes at 20 to 40 degrees C are kinder to clothes and use less power, and they do not dissolve fats or kill the microbes that live on residue.
Liquid detergents and softeners leave more film than powder, and contain no bleach.
Efficient machines use far less water, so less is flushed through.
Doors kept shut between washes hold the damp in.
Heat and humidity. In Dubai's climate a closed, wet drum in an unventilated laundry cupboard is warm for most of the year, which is ideal for mould.
None of this means going back to hot washes for everything. It means giving the machine one hot, empty, cleaning cycle a month, and letting it dry between uses.
ItemUsed forNotes
Washing machine cleanerThe hot empty washA product made for the purpose. Powder, liquid or tablet. Follow the pack
Citric acid, as an alternative descalerRemoving limescaleA food-grade powder. Use the quantity your machine's manual or the pack recommends
Microfibre cloths, two or threeSeal, glass, outsideOne kept for the seal
Old toothbrush or small bottle brushDrawer, recess, seal fold
Shallow tray and old towelsDraining the pump filterA baking tray works
Washing-up liquid and warm waterDrawer and filter
Rubber glovesSeal and filterThe filter can be unpleasant
Long-nose pliersInlet filterYearly job
TorchLooking into the seal fold and the filter housing
You do not need specialist tools, and you do not need to take anything apart beyond pulling out the drawer and unscrewing the filter.
Step 1: clean the door seal and glass
The grey rubber seal round the door of a front loader, also called the gasket, is where dirt is most visible and where mould starts. Its fold holds water, lint and anything that falls out of the load.
1
Open the door wide and pull the fold of the seal backAll the way round, with a torch. You are looking into a deep groove.
2
Pick out anything solidHair, coins, hair grips, tissue, the odd sock.
3
Wipe the whole seal with a cloth wrung out in warm water and a little washing-up liquidInside the fold, the lip that touches the glass, and the outer face. Work round a section at a time.
4
For black mould spots, use a mould remover or a diluted bleach solution on the clothApply it to the spots, leave it for a few minutes and wipe off. Rinse the cloth and wipe again with clean water. Never mix bleach with any other cleaner.
5
Wipe the door glass, inside and outEspecially the bulge of the inner glass, where residue dries on. A rough or cloudy glass can stop the seal sealing.
6
Dry the seal and the glass with a clean clothDo not skip this. A wet seal is where the mould came from.
7
Check the small drain holes at the bottom of the sealMany seals have two or three holes at six o'clock that let water run back into the tub. Clear them with a cotton bud.
What you findWhat it means
Grey slimeDetergent and softener residue. Cut the dose
Black dots that wipe offSurface mould. Clean and dry
Black staining that will not come offMould has grown into the rubber. It can be reduced, not removed. The seal can be replaced if it bothers you or smells
A slit or holeDamage from a wire or coin. The seal needs replacing before it leaks
Rust-coloured marksA metal object sat there, or water is carrying rust from a hair grip or bra wire
Top loaders have no door seal. Wipe under the rim of the tub, round the top of the agitator or pulsator and under the lid instead, where splashed residue collects.
The drawer is rinsed with cold water for a few seconds per wash, and that is not enough to clear thick softener or damp powder. A blocked drawer leaves detergent behind, leaks down the front of the machine and feeds mould.
1
Pull the drawer out as far as it goesThen press the release catch, usually a tab marked PUSH at the back of the softener compartment, and pull it right out. Some lift up and out. Check the manual if it resists.
2
Take out the removable partsThe softener siphon cap and any liquid-detergent flap lift off.
3
Soak everything in warm soapy water for ten minutesThen scrub with the toothbrush. Clear the siphon tube under the cap, which is where softener sets solid.
5
Clean the recess the drawer came out ofThis is the part people miss. Brush the floor, the sides and the roof. The roof has a row of small jets where the water comes in, and they clog with scale and mould. Brush upward into them.
6
Wipe the recess out with a clothAnd look at the outlet at the back, where water runs down to the tub. Clear any sludge.
7
Refit the parts and slide the drawer backLeave it open a few centimetres to dry.
ProblemCauseFix
Powder left in the drawer after a washBlocked jets, low water pressure, damp or clumped powderClean the recess roof. Keep powder dry. Check the inlet filter
Softener compartment full of water after the washSiphon cap blockedClean the cap and tube
Softener gone before the final rinseOverfilled above the MAX line, or siphon cap missingFill to the line. Refit the cap
Black mould in the recessResidue and no airflowScrub, then leave the drawer ajar after every wash
Water running down the front on fillRecess or outlet blockedClean as above
Thick fabric softener is the main culprit. Dilute it with a little water in the compartment, use less, or do without. Machines with automatic dosing tanks need those tanks rinsed out as the manual describes, usually every few months or when changing product.
The pump filter catches lint, hair, coins and anything else before it reaches the drain pump. It sits in a pocket of water that never fully drains, so it is also a source of smell.
1
Switch off and unplug the machine
2
Open the flap at the bottom frontOn some machines the plinth strip clips or screws off.
3
Put towels down and a shallow tray under the filterWater will come out, usually between half a litre and two litres if the machine drained normally.
4
Drain through the small emergency hose, if there is onePull it out, hold it over the tray and remove its plug. Replug it when the flow stops.
5
Unscrew the filter anticlockwiseSlowly. More water will come.
6
Pull it out and clean itRemove the lint and hair. Rinse under the tap and brush it.
7
Wipe out the filter housingWith a cloth round a finger. Check with a torch for coins or grips, and that the pump impeller at the back turns.
8
Check the rubber seal ring on the filterIt should be clean, whole and in its groove.
9
Screw the filter back in clockwise until firmIt must go in straight. A cross-threaded filter leaks.
10
Push the drain hose back and close the flapRun a short rinse later and check for drips.
If the machine has just finished a hot wash, wait until it has cooled. If a great deal of water comes out, more than a few litres, the machine is not draining properly. See our guide to a washing machine not draining.
Many top loaders have no front filter. Some have a mesh lint filter inside the tub wall or on top of the agitator, which lifts or clips out to be rinsed. Check the manual.
The hot empty wash is what cleans the parts you cannot see: the outside of the drum, the inside of the outer tub, the heating element and the hoses.
1
Empty the drum completelyNo laundry.
2
Add a washing machine cleanerFollow the pack: some go in the drum, some in the drawer.
3
Select the drum clean or tub clean programme if the machine has oneIt may be called Drum Clean, Tub Clean, Eco Drum Clean, Self Clean or Machine Care. These programmes are designed for the job, with higher water levels and temperatures.
4
If there is no such programme, select the hottest cotton programme60 degrees C at least, 90 if the machine offers it, with no prewash and the longest duration.
5
Start it and let it run to the endDo not open the door part way.
6
When it finishes, wipe the seal and the drum dryAnd leave the door open.
7
If the machine was very dirty, repeatFlakes of grey or black residue in the drum afterwards mean deposits have been loosened and there are more to come. Run another hot cycle.
Machine promptBrandMeaning
tcLLGReminder to run Tub Clean. It appears about every 30 cycles
A drum symbol with a dropletBosch and SiemensDrum cleaning is due. Run Drum Clean
Hygiene infoMieleNo hot programme has been run for a long time. Run one at 60 degrees C or above
A self-clean or drum-clean indicatorSamsung and othersRun the drum cleaning programme
These reminders are not faults. They are the maker's way of saying the same thing as this guide. On top loaders, use the tub clean programme or the hottest, highest-level programme, pause it once it has filled and agitated for a minute, leave it to soak for an hour, then let it finish.
Step 5: inlet filter, hoses and the outside
1
Close the water tap and unplug the machine
2
Unscrew the inlet hose from the back of the machine by handOver a towel.
3
Pull the small mesh filter out of the inlet with long-nose pliersRinse and brush it until it is clear.
4
Refit the filter and the hose, hand-tightOpen the tap and check for drips.
A clogged inlet mesh makes the machine fill slowly and leave powder in the drawer. In homes fed from a storage tank, check it twice a year.
Look along the inlet hose for bulges, cracks or rust at the metal ends. Replace it about every five years.
Check the drain hose is not kinked, and that its end is clean where it enters the standpipe or sink spigot. A plug of grey sludge forms there.
Wipe the cabinet, the top and the door with a damp cloth and a drop of washing-up liquid.
Wipe the control panel with a cloth that is barely damp. Never spray cleaner at the buttons or the display.
Clean the door handle and the latch catch, where detergent dries on.
Vacuum or wipe behind and under the machine once or twice a year. Lint collects there.
Which cleaners to use, and which to avoid
There is a great deal of conflicting advice on this. The safe rule is to use products made for washing machines, at the dose on the pack, and to check your manual, since makers differ on what they allow.
CleanerWhat it doesVerdict
Washing machine cleaner (commercial)Dissolves residue and scale, some disinfectThe simplest choice. Made for the job
Citric acidDissolves limescaleEffective and widely recommended as a descaler. Use the recommended quantity, not more
Biological powder detergent with oxygen bleach, on a hot empty washBreaks down grease and biofilmA reasonable routine clean on machines whose makers suggest it
Soda crystals (washing soda)Cuts grease and softens waterUseful for greasy residue and the drawer. Not a descaler
Chlorine bleachKills mould and bacteria and sanitises the drumOnly if your manual permits it, diluted, never with other products, and followed by a rinse. It can damage rubber and stainless steel with repeated use
White vinegarMild acidOpinions differ. Some makers advise against it because repeated use can harden rubber seals and hoses. Occasional, diluted use is unlikely to do harm. It is not as effective as citric acid
Bicarbonate of sodaMild deodoriserHarmless and weak. It does little by itself
Dishwasher tabletsDetergent and enzymesOften suggested online. Not designed for this, and they can foam. Use a washing machine cleaner instead
Descaling tablets with every washSoften waterNot needed if you dose detergent correctly for your water
Never mix bleach with vinegar, citric acid, ammonia or any other cleaner. The mixture gives off toxic gas.
Never use caustic drain cleaner in a washing machine.
Never use abrasive pads or powders on the drum, the glass or the seal.
Never pour boiling water into the drum or the drawer. It can crack plastic parts.
Never run a cleaning cycle with laundry in the drum.
A washing machine that smells is growing something. The smell tells you roughly what and where.
SmellLikely sourceFix
Musty, damp and smelly, like a wet towelMould and biofilm on the seal, in the drawer recess and behind the drumFull clean, hot cycle, then dry between washes
Sour or like stale sweatBacteria on body oils and residue, from constant cool washingHot cycle with cleaner. Add a 60 degree wash for towels and bedding each week
Rotten eggs or drainsBacteria in standing water in the pump and hoses, or sewer gas coming back up the drain hoseClean the filter. Check the drain hose has its high loop and the standpipe has a trap
Stagnant, after the machine has stood unusedWater left in the sump and hosesHot empty cycle before use
Burning rubber or hot plasticNot a hygiene problem: a slipping belt, a seized pump or an electrical faultStop and have it checked
Chemical, on a new machineNew rubber and plasticsRun an empty hot wash before first use
Take laundry out as soon as the cycle ends. An hour in a closed drum is enough.
Do not overload. Packed clothes are not rinsed properly.
Use the right dose. Too much detergent leaves a film that goes sour. Too little leaves the soil in.
Wash towels, sportswear and bedding at 60 degrees C where the care label allows.
Dry laundry fully and promptly.
Either the machine is still dirty where you cannot reach, in which case repeat the hot cycle two or three times, or the drain is the source. Lift the drain hose out of the standpipe and smell the pipe. If the smell is there, the household drain needs attention, and the hose must be routed with a high loop so drain air cannot travel back into the drum.
Limescale and descaling
Limescale is the hard mineral crust that forms where water is heated. In a washing machine it forms on the heating element and inside the tub. A scaled element takes longer to heat the water, uses more electricity and eventually overheats and fails.
SignWhat it suggests
White or grey crust on the drum, door glass or drawerScale is forming
Stiff, scratchy towelsMinerals left in the fabric
Kettle and shower head scale up quickly in the same homeYour water is depositing minerals. Descale the machine more often
Wash times creeping up on warm programmesThe element may be coated
Gritty white flakes in the drum after a hot washScale breaking away
1
Run an empty hot cycle with a descalerA washing machine descaler or citric acid, at the quantity the pack or your manual gives.
2
Follow with a plain hot or rinse cycleTo flush out what has been loosened.
3
Clean the pump filter afterwardsFlakes of scale end up there.
How often depends on the water where you live. Water quality varies by area and by the state of a building's tank and pipes, so judge by what you see on taps and in the kettle. Where there is visible scale, descale every three months. Where there is none, twice a year is enough. Using the detergent dose for your water does most of the prevention, since detergents contain water softeners.
Top load machines and twin tubs
Top loaders are cleaned on the same principle with a different routine.
1
Wipe under the lid, round the tub rim and the top of the agitator or pulsatorResidue and softener splash collect out of sight under the rim.
2
Clean the dispensersBleach and softener cups lift out or wipe clean. A softener cup in the top of an agitator pulls off.
3
Clean the lint filterIf the machine has one, inside the tub wall or the agitator. Rinse it under a tap.
4
Run the tub clean programme, or the hottest and highest-level programme, with a cleanerLet it fill and agitate for a minute, then pause it and let it soak for an hour before it continues.
5
Wipe the tub dry and leave the lid openAfter every wash, not only after cleaning.
Under a pulsator there is a cavity where sludge gathers. If black flakes keep appearing on the laundry, that cavity needs cleaning, which means removing the pulsator: one screw under a cap in its centre on most machines.
Many top loaders fill with cold water only. A cleaner that works in cold water, or a long soak, matters more on these.
On twin tubs, clean the wash tub, the spin tub and the overflow and lint filters, and leave both lids open to dry.
Black or brown flakes on washing from a top loader are bits of biofilm breaking off the hidden side of the tub. Two or three tub clean cycles in a row usually clear it.
The monthly routine, and a schedule
WhenTask
After every washTake the laundry out promptly. Wipe the seal fold if it is wet. Leave the door and the drawer ajar
WeeklyOne wash at 60 degrees C, for towels or bedding. Wipe the door glass
MonthlyClean the seal, the drawer and its recess. Run the hot cleaning cycle
Every one to two monthsClean the pump filter. Monthly with pets or young children
Every three to six monthsDescale, depending on your water
YearlyClean the inlet filter. Check both hoses. Clean behind and under the machine. Check the machine is level
Before a long absenceRun a hot cycle, dry the drum, leave the door open, close the tap, unplug
After a long absenceRun an empty hot cycle before the first wash
Measure detergent. Most people use too much. Use the dose on the pack for your load size, soil level and water, and less for small or lightly soiled loads.
Go easy on fabric softener, or skip it.
Prefer powder for whites and towels. It contains oxygen bleach, which helps keep the machine clean.
Do not leave wet laundry in the drum.
Keep the laundry area ventilated. In a closed cupboard, leave the cupboard door open after a wash.
Cleaning deals with residue, mould and scale. It does not fix a fault, and some symptoms that look like dirt are faults.
Symptom after a thorough cleanLikely causeAction
Smell returns within days, filter water is foulSump hose or outer tub heavily fouled, or drain air coming backInternal clean by a technician. Check the drain routing
Black mould deep in the seal, or a torn sealSeal beyond cleaningSeal replacement
Grey or brown marks on laundry, rumble on spinBearing seal failing, grease reaching the drumBearing repair
Rusty marks on laundryObject behind the drum, or a chipped drum or spider corrosionInspection
Water left in the drum, slow drainingBlocked or failing pumpSee the draining guide
Powder still left in the drawerLow inlet flow or a failed valve coilInlet filter. Technician
Washes cold, clothes not cleanHeating element failed, often from scaleElement replacement
Leaks from the drawer or door after cleaningDrawer hose blocked, seal damagedTechnician
We offer washing machine deep cleaning as a service. It reaches the parts a home clean cannot, such as the pump housing, the internal hoses, the drawer housing and the heating element. It suits a machine that still smells after repeated hot cycles, a machine in a rented home with an unknown history, and machines in shared laundry rooms. What is included is agreed with you before work starts.
The visit is AED 100 plus VAT for the diagnosis, with a fixed price for the clean or any repair agreed before work starts. See washing machine repair in Dubai.
Cleaning the drum and ignoring the drawer recess and the seal fold, which is where the mould is.
Running the cleaning cycle at 40 degrees C. It needs to be hot.
Using more cleaner than the pack says. More is not better and can foam.
Shutting the door on a wet drum straight after cleaning.
Forgetting the filter until the machine stops draining.
Using vinegar or bleach every week. Occasional use is one thing. Routine use shortens the life of rubber parts.
Cleaning the machine once and expecting it to last a year.
How do I clean a washing machine?
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Wipe and dry the door seal, wash the detergent drawer and its recess, clean the pump filter, then run the hottest empty programme or the drum clean programme with a washing machine cleaner.
How often should I clean my washing machine?
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Once a month for the seal, drawer and hot cycle, and every one to two months for the pump filter.
What is the best thing to clean a washing machine with?
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A washing machine cleaner made for the purpose, at the dose on the pack. Citric acid is an effective descaler.
Can I use vinegar to clean a washing machine?
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Occasionally and diluted, it is unlikely to do harm, but some makers advise against it because repeated use can affect rubber parts. Citric acid or a proper cleaner is a better choice.
Can I use bleach?
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Only if your manual allows it, diluted, by itself and followed by a rinse. Never mix it with any other cleaner.
How do I clean the rubber seal?
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Pull back the fold, remove debris, wipe all round with warm soapy water, treat mould spots with a mould remover, rinse and dry.
How do I get rid of the smell?
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Clean the seal, drawer and filter, run a hot cycle with cleaner, then leave the door open between washes and do one 60 degree wash a week.
What temperature should a cleaning cycle be?
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At least 60 degrees C, and 90 if the machine offers it, unless you are using the machine's own drum clean programme.
How do I clean a top load washing machine?
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Wipe under the rim and lid, clean the dispensers and lint filter, then run the tub clean or hottest programme with a cleaner, pausing for an hour's soak.
Why are there black flakes on my washing?
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Biofilm or mould breaking off from behind the drum. Run two or three hot cleaning cycles in a row.
Do you offer washing machine deep cleaning in Dubai?
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Yes. One Click Dubai cleans the pump, hoses, drawer housing, heating element and tub. Call or WhatsApp +971 55 209 9785.
Does cleaning the machine make it last longer?
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Yes. Residue and scale are behind many pump, heater, seal and bearing failures.
Smell or leak that cleaning won't fix?We offer washing machine deep cleaning and repair. The diagnostic is AED 100 plus VAT, and repairs carry a 1-month warranty.
