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Washing Machine Not Draining: Causes, Checks and Fixes

Get the water out safely first. Then check the filter, the hose, the household drain and the pump, in that order.

16 min readFront-load and top-load washersStep-by-step checksReviewed by Abdul Suboor, Lead EngineerUpdated October 2026
Washing Machine Not Draining: Causes, Checks and Fixes

Overview

A washing machine not draining has a blocked pump filter, a blocked or kinked drain hose, a blocked household drain or a failed drain pump, in roughly that order of likelihood. The first three you can check and clear yourself in half an hour with a towel and a shallow tray.

This guide starts with how to get the water out safely, because nothing else can be done with a full drum. It then takes you through the checks in order, explains each cause and how to confirm it, and tells you where to stop. It covers front load and top load machines. The checks are the same on every make, including Samsung, LG, Bosch, Siemens, Whirlpool, Beko, Hotpoint, Indesit, Electrolux, Zanussi, Hoover, Candy, Haier, Kenmore and Frigidaire. If the checks do not cure it, washing machine repair in Dubai has the booking details.

Washing machine not draining: the short answer

Water left in the drum at the end of a cycle means the pump could not push it out, or was never told to. Work through these in order.

OrderCauseHow commonWho fixes it
1Pump filter blocked with lint, coins, hair grips or a small sockVery commonYou
2Drain hose kinked, crushed or blockedCommonYou
3Sink trap, spigot or standpipe blockedCommonYou, or a plumber if the blockage is deep
4Drain hose fitted wrongly, so water siphons or returnsCommon after a move or new installationYou
5Object jammed in the pump impellerFairly commonYou, if reachable through the filter opening
6Drain pump failedFairly common on older machinesTechnician
7Sump hose between tub and pump blockedLess commonTechnician
8Pressure switch, wiring or control board not running the pumpLess commonTechnician
9Door lock or lid switch fault stopping the cycle before the drainLess commonTechnician

If the machine drains and then will not spin, the fault may still be drainage: most machines refuse to spin with water inside. If it spins and the clothes are simply wetter than usual, see our guide to a washing machine not spinning.

Before anything else: get the water out safely

You cannot clear a filter or move a machine that is holding 15 to 40 litres of water without planning where that water will go. Take ten minutes to drain it under control.

1
Switch off and unplug

Water and mains electricity are both present. Unplug at the wall before you touch anything.

2
Let hot water cool

If the machine stopped during a hot wash, wait until the door glass is cool to the hand.

3
Try the drain or spin programme once

Plug back in, select Drain or Spin only, and listen. If the water goes, the original stoppage may have been a one-off. If the pump hums and nothing moves, unplug again and carry on.

4
Use the emergency drain hose if there is one

Open the small flap at the bottom front. Many front loaders have a thin rubber tube beside the filter with a plug in its end. Pull it out, hold the end over a shallow tray, remove the plug and let it run. Refit the plug each time the tray is full.

5
No small hose? Use the main drain hose

Unhook the drain hose from the standpipe or sink at the back and lower its end into a bucket or a floor drain. Water runs out by gravity as long as the end is below the water level in the drum.

6
Or open the filter a little at a time

With towels down and a tray pushed against the machine, turn the filter cap anticlockwise a quarter turn until water runs, then close it to empty the tray. This is slow and wet, and it works.

7
Top loaders

Lower the drain hose into a bucket or floor drain, or bale the water out with a jug.

Expect more water than you think. A shallow oven tray holds about two litres, so a full drum needs a dozen or more trips. A wet-and-dry vacuum on the end of the drain hose is the quick way if you have one.

Do not tip the machine to pour water out, and do not force the door. The door stays locked while the machine senses water, and it releases once the level has dropped.

Read the symptom first

What the machine does at the point where it should drain tells you a good deal before you open anything.

What you see and hearMost likely causeStart with
Pump hums or buzzes, water does not moveBlocked filter, jammed impeller or blocked hoseFilter
Pump is silentPump failed, wiring, or the control never called for a drainTechnician, after checking the cycle has not simply been paused
Loud rattle or grinding as it tries to drainA coin or wire in the pumpFilter and impeller
Drains very slowly, cycle runs long, drain error near the endPartial blockage in filter, hose or household drainFilter, then hose, then the sink trap
Water gushes back out of the standpipe or up into the sinkHousehold drain blockedSink trap or standpipe
Drains, then a little water comes back into the drumHose not looped high enough, or waste water from the sink entering the hoseHose routing
Drum never seems to hold water, washes badly, long cyclesSiphoning: hose end too low or pushed too far down the pipeHose routing
A small amount of water under the door seal foldNormalNothing
Stopped mid-cycle with water, door locked, lights flashingAny fault the machine has detected, not always drainageNote the code
New machine, never drained properlyInstallation: transit cap left in the hose spigot, hose kinked, or the hose pushed into a sealed pipeHose and connection

One detail catches many people: on a new sink trap or waste disposer, the spigot where the washing machine hose connects is supplied sealed. If nobody cut out or knocked through that blanking cap, the machine has nowhere to pump.

Check 1: the pump filter

The pump filter, also called the debris filter or coin trap, sits in front of the pump and catches whatever comes out of pockets and off clothes. A blocked filter is the cause of most draining faults, and clearing it takes ten minutes once the water is out.

1
Find it

On most front loaders it is behind a small rectangular or round flap at the bottom right or left of the front panel. Some have it behind the plinth strip, which clips or screws off.

2
Prepare

Machine unplugged, water drained as far as you can, towels and a tray in place.

3
Unscrew anticlockwise

It may be stiff. Turn steadily. More water will come.

4
Pull the filter out and clean it

Remove lint, hair, coins, buttons and anything else. Rinse it under the tap.

5
Look into the housing with a torch

Take out anything lying in the cavity. You may see the pump impeller at the back or side: small plastic paddles on a spindle.

6
Turn the impeller with a finger or a pencil

It should turn with a slight, notchy resistance, a little at a time. If it is jammed solid, something is caught in it and the pump is clogged. If it spins completely freely or wobbles, it may have come off its shaft.

7
Refit the filter

Line up the thread carefully and turn clockwise until it stops firmly. A filter that is cross-threaded or not fully home leaks on the next wash.

8
Test

Run a Rinse and Spin or Drain programme and watch the filter cap for drips.

What you findWhat it means
A wad of lint and hairNormal build-up. Clean every month or two
Coins, hair grips, screws, bra wiresCheck pockets, and use a mesh bag for small items
A baby sock or a handkerchiefSmall items pass between the drum and the door seal. Wash them in a bag
Grey sludgeDetergent and softener residue from cool washes. Run a hot maintenance wash monthly
Nothing at all, and the pump still only humsThe blockage is further on, or the pump has failed
Bits of broken plastic paddleThe impeller has broken. The pump needs replacing

Top loaders and machines without a front filter

Many top loaders, and some front loaders, have no filter you can reach. Their pump is under the machine or behind the back panel. On these, check the hose and the household drain, and leave the pump to a technician.

Check 2: the drain hose

The drain hose is the grey corrugated pipe at the back. It is easily kinked when the machine is pushed against the wall, and its ridges collect lint and sludge over the years.

1
Pull the machine forward

Carefully, without stretching the hoses or cable.

2
Follow the hose from the machine to the drain

Look for sharp bends, flattened sections where the machine or a cabinet has pressed on it, and splits.

3
Unhook it and check the end

The last few centimetres often clog where the hose enters the standpipe or spigot.

4
Check for a blockage along its length

Lower the end into a bucket. If the drum still has water in it, water should run freely. A trickle means the hose or the sump inside the machine is blocked.

5
Flush it

If you can detach the hose at the machine end, which usually needs the back panel off and is a job for a technician, it can be flushed through. Otherwise, run water into the free end with it held high, then lower it into a bucket to see whether water passes.

6
Refit it correctly

See the next section. Routing matters as much as cleanliness.

FaultSignFix
Kink behind the machineDrains when pulled forward, fails when pushed backRe-route with a gentle curve. Leave a hand's width behind the machine
Crushed under a foot or cabinet edgeFlattened sectionFree it. Replace the hose if it stays flat
Blocked endSludge plug at the tipClear it out
SplitWater on the floor when drainingNew hose
Hose extended with a joinerJoint pulled apart or blockedRemake with a proper connector, or fit a single longer hose
Hose too long, lying in loops on the floorSlow draining, water standing in the loopsShorten the route or support the hose

Check 3: how the hose is connected

A washing machine pump is small. It can lift water about a metre and no more, and the hose has to be arranged so that water can neither run out by itself nor come back. Installation faults cause drain errors, long cycles and poor washing that are often blamed on the machine.

RuleWhyTypical maker figure
The hose must rise to a high point before it goes down to the drainStops the drum emptying itself by siphon, and stops waste water running backAt least about 60 cm above the floor
The high point must not be too highThe pump cannot lift beyond its limitNo more than about 100 cm
The end must not be pushed far down a standpipeA hose sealed deep in the pipe siphonsAbout 10 to 15 cm into the pipe
There must be an air gap around the hose in a standpipeAir breaks the siphonDo not tape or seal the joint
On a sink trap spigot, the hose should loop up to worktop height firstStops sink waste flowing into the machineFixed up with the hook or a clip
The spigot's blanking cap must be removedOtherwise there is no outletCut or knock it out before first use
The end must not sit under waterIn a sink or bucket full of water, the hose siphons backKeep the end above the water level

Signs of siphoning

The machine fills and drains at the same time, and the cycle never seems to finish.
Clothes come out with detergent still on them.
You hear water running to the drain while the machine is filling.
Water use and cycle times have gone up since the machine was moved.

Use the plastic U-shaped hook that came with the machine to hold the bend in the hose. If it has been lost, a cable tie to the standpipe or the wall at the right height does the same job. The exact heights for your model are in its installation instructions.

Check 4: the sink trap, standpipe and floor drain

If the hose and filter are clear and the pump is working, the water has to go somewhere. A blocked household drain sends it back up the standpipe, into the sink, or out over the floor.

Where the machine drainsHow to testHow to clear
Spigot on the kitchen sink trapRun the tap hard. If the sink is slow to empty, the trap or waste pipe is blockedUnscrew the trap over a bucket and clean it. Clean the spigot, which clogs with a plug of grease and lint
Standpipe, an open upright pipePour a jug of water down it. It should vanish at onceClear with a drain auger or flexible brush. Check the trap at its base
Floor drain in a laundry or balconyPour a bucket of water into itLift the grating and clear hair and lint
Shared waste with a dishwasherDoes the dishwasher also drain slowly?The shared pipe is blocked

In apartment kitchens, the washing machine usually shares the sink waste. Grease from the sink and lint from the washer combine into a firm plug in the spigot and the first bend. If water rises in the sink when the machine pumps out, that plug is the reason.

A blockage further along, in the building's pipework, is the building maintenance team's job. If several fittings in the home are slow, report it to them.

Check 5: the pump itself

The drain pump is a small sealed motor with a plastic impeller, bolted to the filter housing. It either runs or it does not, and it either moves water or it does not.

TestResultMeaning
Listen during a Drain programme with the filter cleanSteady hum and water flowingPump is working. Look elsewhere
Hum, no flowImpeller detached from its shaft, or a blockage beyond the pump
Hum that struggles, then stopsImpeller jammed
Rattle or grindingObject in the pump or broken blades
SilencePump motor failed, or no power is reaching it
Turn the impeller by hand, machine unpluggedNotchy, a bit at a timeNormal. That is the magnet
Will not moveJammed
Spins loosely or wobblesImpeller loose or bearings worn
Look for water at the pump bodyDrips or a white crustPump seal leaking

A pump that is silent is not always dead. The machine may not have reached the drain stage because of another fault, or a wire may be off. That is why a technician measures the supply at the pump connector before fitting a new one.

Pump replacement is a short repair on most machines. What it involves and what it typically costs are on our washing machine parts page.

Causes inside the machine

If the filter, hose, household drain and pump all check out, the cause is deeper. These need the machine opened.

CauseWhat happensHow it is confirmed
Sump hose blockedThe wide rubber hose from the bottom of the tub to the pump holds a sock, a wad of lint or a wireHose removed and inspected
Object lodged at the tub outletA bra wire or coin sits across the outlet and catches lintSeen through the heater opening or the sump
Pressure chamber or its hose blockedThe machine misreads the water level and never moves on to drain, or thinks it is still fullChamber and hose cleaned and tested
Pressure switch or level sensor failedAs aboveSensor tested
Wiring to the pump damagedPump never receives powerVoltage measured at the pump
Control board not switching the pumpPump is good and gets no supplyBoard output tested
Door lock or lid switch faultCycle halts before drain and spin as a safety measureLock tested
Heavy sudsFoam airlocks the pump, which spins without moving waterVisible foam. Clears with time and a rinse

Too much detergent deserves a mention. A drum full of foam drains badly because the pump cannot grip froth. If you see suds, wait an hour, run a rinse with no detergent, and use less next time, particularly with soft water and small loads.

Front load and top load: the differences

The principles are the same on both types. The access and the common faults differ.

Front loadTop load
FilterUsually at the bottom front, user-accessibleOften none, or a lint filter inside the tub
Pump positionFront or side, at the baseUnderneath or at the rear
Draining by gravityThrough the emergency hose or the filterBy lowering the drain hose
Common drain faultBlocked filterBlocked hose, pump jammed by a small item, lid switch
Other reasons it stops with waterDoor lock, unbalanced loadLid not registering as closed, drain motor on models that use a valve
Suds problemsCommon with too much detergentCommon with front-load detergent quantities misjudged

Some top loaders, particularly Asian-market models, drain through a valve at the bottom of the tub by gravity, with no pump at all. These must drain to a floor-level outlet, and they fail to drain if the hose is lifted above the base of the machine. Check the manual before raising the hose on a top loader.

Error codes that mean not draining

Most machines show a code when a drain takes too long. These are the codes we have confirmed from the makers' own documentation. For any other make, or any other code, note it exactly and look it up in the manual for your model.

BrandDrain codesMaker's first checks
Samsung5C, 5E, ndDebris filter and drain hose
LGOEDrain hose, pump filter
BoschE18, F18, d02. On newer displays E:36 -10, E:30 -80, E:36 -25, E:38 -25Drain hose and pump
SiemensE18, F18. On newer displays E:36 -10, E:30 -80Pump and drain hose
Whirlpooldrn on top loaders, F9 E1 on front loadersDrain hose and filter
MieleF11, or the Check drain messageHose height, kinks, drain filters

A code tells you which stage failed, not which part. A drain code with a clean filter and a clear hose still leaves the pump, its wiring and the household drain to check. Brand detail is on the pages for Samsung, LG, Bosch and the other brands we repair.

What not to do

Do not keep restarting the cycle. Each attempt runs a hot pump against a blockage.
Do not force the door. Drain the water and the lock releases.
Do not tip the machine forward or onto its side with water in it. Water runs into the motor and electronics.
Do not pour drain cleaner into the drum or the standpipe while the hose is connected. Caustic cleaners attack pump seals and hoses.
Do not run the machine with the filter out or loose.
Do not push the drain hose further down the standpipe to stop it popping out. Clip it at the top.
Do not open the cabinet with the machine plugged in.

When to stop and call a technician

Stop and book a repair when any of these is true.

The filter is clean, the hose is clear, the household drain runs freely, and the machine still will not empty.
The pump is silent on a Drain programme.
The pump rattles or grinds and you cannot see or reach what is in it.
The impeller is broken, loose or seized.
There is a burning smell from the base of the machine.
Water is leaking from the pump or filter housing itself.
The same drain code returns within a few washes.
The machine has no accessible filter.
RepairWhat it involvesTypical Dubai market range, fitted
Clear a sump hose or tub outletMachine opened, hose removed and cleanedSmall job, usually near the low end of repair prices
Drain hose replacementNew hose routed and clippedAED 100 to 200
Drain pump replacementOld pump removed from the housing, new one fitted and testedAED 200 to 400
Pressure switch or hoseSensor or air hose replacedToward the lower end of repair prices
Control boardBoard replaced or repairedAED 400 to 800

These are market ranges published in 2026 Dubai price guides, not our price list. Our diagnostic visit is AED 100 plus VAT, and the repair price is fixed before work starts. See our guide to washing machine repair cost in Dubai.

How to stop it happening again

Empty pockets. Coins, tissues, hair grips and screws are what block pumps.
Wash socks, baby clothes, face cloths and underwired bras in a mesh laundry bag.
Clean the pump filter every one to two months, and monthly if you have pets.
Use the amount of detergent the pack gives for your load and water, and no more. Extra detergent becomes sludge and suds.
Run a hot maintenance wash, 60 degrees C or above with the drum empty, once a month.
Leave a gap behind the machine so the hose is not crushed.
Keep the U-hook on the hose and check its height after the machine has been moved.
Clean the sink trap and spigot once or twice a year if the machine drains through it.

A full cleaning routine is in our guide to how to clean a washing machine.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my washing machine not draining?

The pump filter is blocked, the drain hose is kinked or blocked, the household drain is blocked or the drain pump has failed. Check them in that order.

How do I drain a washing machine that is full of water?

Unplug it. Use the small emergency hose beside the filter, or lower the main drain hose into a bucket or floor drain, or open the filter a little at a time over a tray.

Where is the filter on a washing machine?

Behind a small flap at the bottom front on most front loaders. Many top loaders do not have one you can reach.

The pump is humming and no water comes out. What is wrong?

Something is blocking the filter, the impeller or the hose, or the impeller has come loose from the pump.

The pump makes no sound. Is it broken?

Possibly. It may also be getting no power because of a wiring, lock or control fault. A technician tests the supply before replacing it.

Why does water come back into the drum after draining?

The drain hose is not looped high enough, or sink waste is running into it. Fix the hose at the height the manual gives.

Why does my machine fill and drain at the same time?

It is siphoning. The hose end is too low or pushed too far into the standpipe.

Can I use drain cleaner to unclog a washing machine?

No. It damages seals and hoses. Clear the filter and hose by hand, and treat the household drain separately with the hose disconnected.

How often should the filter be cleaned?

Every one to two months.

How much does a drain pump replacement cost in Dubai?

Published market ranges are about AED 200 to 400 fitted. We give a fixed price after diagnosis.

Will the door open with water inside?

No. Drain the water first and the lock releases after a minute or two.

Who can fix a washing machine that will not drain in Dubai?

One Click Dubai sends a technician the same day. Call or WhatsApp +971 55 209 9785.

Filter clean, hose clear, still full?

A technician can find the cause on site. The diagnostic is AED 100 plus VAT, and repairs carry a 1-month warranty.

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