A washing machine leaking or dripping water is losing it from one of about ten places, and you can usually tell which from two facts: where the water appears, and at what point in the cycle. Water at the front points to the door seal or the detergent drawer. Water at the back points to the hoses. Water from underneath points to the pump, an internal hose or the tub.
This guide starts with what to do in the first ten minutes, because leakage or flooding that reaches a neighbour's ceiling costs far more than the repair. It then shows how to find the source without opening the machine, takes each cause in turn, and says which are home fixes. It covers front load and top load machines. The checks are the same on every make, including Samsung, LG, Bosch, Siemens, Whirlpool, Beko, Hotpoint, Indesit, Electrolux, Zanussi, Hoover, Candy, Haier, Kenmore and Frigidaire. For a repair, see washing machine repair in Dubai.
Where the water isWhenMost likely causeHome fix?
Front, at or below the doorDuring wash or rinseDoor seal dirty, torn or trapped laundry. Door glass dirtyClean. A torn seal needs replacing
Front, from the detergent drawerWhen fillingDrawer blocked with powder, or too much water pressureYes. Clean the drawer and its housing
Front bottom cornerAny time there is water in the drumPump filter cap loose or its seal damagedYes. Reseat. Replace the seal
Back, topWhen fillingInlet hose connection loose, hose washer perished, inlet valve crackedTighten or renew the washer. Valve needs a technician
Back, lowWhen drainingDrain hose split, loose or out of the standpipe. Standpipe overflowingYes, usually
Underneath, middleWash or drainSump hose, pump body, pressure hoseTechnician
Underneath, worst on spinSpinTub seal with worn bearings, cracked tubTechnician
Foam and water from several placesWashToo much detergentYes
Water in the drum when the machine is offStanding idleInlet valve not closingClose the tap. Technician
Puddle with the machine not used at allAny timeNot the machine: the tap, the supply pipe or the drainCheck the plumbing
Find the row that matches before you take anything apart. If you cannot see where the water starts, the section on finding the source shows how.
With water on the floor, do these in order.
1
Do not step in the water to reach the machine if the plug or socket is wetSwitch the circuit off at the distribution board first.
2
Switch off and unplugAt the wall.
3
Close the water tap that feeds the machineIt is behind or beside the machine, or under the sink. Turn it clockwise, or turn the lever across the pipe.
4
Stop more water leaving the drumIf the machine is full, leave the door shut. Do not open the filter yet.
5
Mop upTowels first, then a mop. Lift anything absorbent off the floor. Water travels under kitchen plinths and through floor joints.
6
Tell the flat below or building security if a lot of water escapedIn an apartment, water goes down.
7
Look before you move anythingNote where the water was deepest and whether it is clean, soapy or dirty. That is your best evidence.
What the water is likeWhere it came from
Clean and coldThe supply side: tap, inlet hose, valve, or the fill into the drawer
SoapyThe drum, drawer or door during the wash
Grey and lintyThe drain side: pump, filter, drain hose or standpipe
Oily or rusty streaksPast the tub seal and bearings
Leave the tap closed until the cause is found. A washing machine connected to an open tap is under mains pressure all the time, used or not.
Water runs along the base of the machine before it drips, so the puddle is often not under the leak. These steps find the real source.
1
Dry everythingThe floor, the sides of the machine and the hoses. Pull the machine forward if you can.
2
Lay dry newspaper, paper towel or cardboard under and around the machineA drip shows at once as a dark spot, and its position tells you front, back, left or right.
3
Check the connections with the tap open and the machine offFeel the inlet hose at both ends with a dry tissue. A leak here shows within a minute.
4
Run a short cold cycle and watch each stageFill, wash, drain and spin. Note the moment the first drop appears.
5
Look at the back with a torch during fill and during drainInlet and drain leaks are usually visible.
6
Look at the front during the washRun a finger under the door and under the drawer.
7
Check the paper after the spinA spot under the centre or the back of the drum after spinning points to the tub.
Leak startsSuspect
Before the machine is even switched onTap, inlet hose, or a valve that is letting water through
As water entersDrawer, inlet hose, valve, drawer-to-tub hose
Once the drum is turning with water in itDoor seal, tub, sump hose, pump filter
Only at the highest water level, on rinse or large loadsA hole high in the door seal, overfilling, or a pressure hose fault
Only when pumping outDrain hose, pump, standpipe or sink trap
Only on spinTub seal, a split low in the door seal, a loose tub joint, heavy foam
After the cycle, slowlyDrips from the door seal fold, or a valve seeping
Leaks at the front: the door seal and glass
The rubber door seal on a front loader, also called the gasket or boot, is the commonest source of water at the front. It flexes with the tub and collects everything that falls out of the laundry.
What you findCauseFix
Hair, lint, a sock or grit sitting in the fold or on the lipDebris holds the seal off the glassWipe the seal and the glass clean
Laundry trapped between door and sealOverloading, or an item hanging out as the door closedReload. Check before closing
A slit or pinhole in the rubber, often low downA wire, zip, coin or pet clawNew seal
Rubber perished, sticky or crackingAge, mould and detergent attackNew seal
Seal out of its groove at the front panelRetaining band slippedRefit the seal and band
Door glass rough with dried detergent or scaleResidueClean with a cloth and warm water
Door hangs low or does not pull in tightHinge loose or bent, latch wornTighten or replace
Seal fine, water runs down from the top of the doorWater overflowing from the drawer aboveSee the drawer section
1
Pull the fold of the seal back all the way roundWith a torch. Look for objects and splits, especially between five and seven o'clock.
2
Wipe the whole seal and the glassWith a damp cloth. Dry it.
3
Run a rinse and watch the lower edge of the doorA drip that starts as the drum turns, and comes from the seal and not from above, confirms it.
4
If you find a splitStop using the machine. Glue and tape do not hold on rubber that flexes thousands of times per wash.
A small amount of water left in the seal's fold after a wash is normal. Wipe it out and leave the door ajar so it dries, which also stops the black mould that eventually eats through the rubber.
Water running down the front of the machine from the drawer, during filling, means the water entering the drawer cannot get away into the tub fast enough.
CauseHow to tellFix
Powder caked in the drawer or its housingWhite or grey crust, especially in the roof of the recess where the water jets areRemove the drawer, soak and scrub it, and brush out the recess
Softener compartment siphon blockedThick residue, water standing in the compartmentLift out the siphon cap and wash it
Too much detergent, or powder that has gone damp and solidClumps left after the washUse less. Keep powder dry
High water pressureWater sprays and splashes out, leak only on fillTurn the tap down a little
Hose from the drawer housing to the tub blocked or splitLeak below the drawer, inside the cabinetTechnician
Machine tilted forwardWater runs to the front of the drawerLevel it
Drawer not pushed fully shutObvious once seenClose it
Take the drawer right out once a month. Most have a release tab at the back of the softener section. Wash it under the tap and clean the cavity with an old toothbrush, including upward into the roof.
Leaks at the back: inlet hose, valve and tap
The inlet side is under mains pressure whenever the tap is open, so a leak here runs whether or not the machine is in use. It is also the leak that floods homes when a hose bursts.
WhereCauseFix
At the tap connectionRubber washer missing, hard or split. Connector loose or cross-threadedNew washer. Refit hand-tight plus a little
At the machine connectionAs above, or the plastic thread on the valve cracked by over-tighteningNew washer. A cracked valve is replaced
Along the hoseBulge, split or weeping at a crimped endNew hose, straight away
From the tap body or spindleTap packing wornA plumber, or building maintenance
From the valve body inside the back panelValve cracked or its internal seal failedTechnician
Drips only when the machine fillsValve to drawer hose looseTechnician
Inlet hose connectors are tightened by hand. Pliers crack them.
Each end has a flat rubber washer, and the machine end often has a small mesh filter as well. Both must be in place.
Replace inlet hoses that are more than about five years old, or sooner if they are stiff, bulging or rusty at the ferrules. They are inexpensive.
Hoses with a built-in leak-stop device at the tap end shut off if the inner hose bursts. They are worth fitting where a machine is left to run unattended.
Close the tap when you go away.
If the drum slowly collects water between washes, the inlet valve is not sealing. Left alone, it can fill the drum and overflow. Keep the tap closed except when washing, and have the valve replaced.
Leaks at the back and floor: drain hose and standpipe
Leaks that appear only when the machine pumps out are on the drain side, and half of them are not the machine's fault.
What you seeCauseFix
Water pouring over the top of the standpipeStandpipe or the drain beyond it blocked, or the standpipe too narrow or too short for the pump's flowClear the drain. Raise or widen the standpipe
Water coming up into the sink, or leaking from the sink trapTrap or waste pipe blocked. Spigot connection looseClean the trap. Refit the hose with its clip
Drain hose lying on the floor, having jumped outNot secured. The hose kicks when the pump startsHook it and tie it in place
Water along the hoseSplit, often where it rubs on the wall or the machineNew hose
Leak where the drain hose joins the machineClip loose or hose perished at the spigotTechnician, since the panel has to come off on most machines
Leak at an extension jointJoiner pulled apartRemake or fit a single long hose
To test the household drain, pour a full bucket of water quickly down the standpipe or into the sink. If it backs up, the washing machine will overflow it too. More on drain routing is in our guide to a washing machine not draining.
Water appearing from under the machine with nothing visible at the front or back has come from a part inside the base. The pump filter is the one you can check.
PartLeak patternCauseWho
Pump filter capFront corner, a steady drip whenever the drum holds waterNot screwed fully home, cross-threaded, seal ring twisted, perished or with a hair across itYou
Emergency drain hose plugFront cornerPlug not pushed in after last useYou
Pump bodyUnder the front or side, during wash and drainCracked housing or failed shaft sealTechnician
Sump hose, tub to pumpCentre, as soon as the drum fillsSplit in a fold, loose clip, or pierced by a wire from the drumTechnician
Pressure chamber and hoseCentre or sideHose off or splitTechnician
Drawer to tub hoseFront top inside the cabinet, on fillSplit or clip looseTechnician
Heater sealUnder the front or back, during washHeater gasket leakingTechnician
Recirculation or jet hose on some modelsFront, during washClip or hoseTechnician
1
Unplug, and drain the machine if it has water in itSee the draining guide for how.
2
Open the filter, clean it and inspect its rubber ringThe ring should be whole, supple and clean.
3
Wipe the thread and the seat inside the housingGrit there stops it sealing.
4
Refit carefully and tighten firmlyIt should turn in smoothly. If it binds, back it out and start again.
5
Run a rinse and watchA dry filter cap rules it out.
Many machines now have a tray in the base with a float switch that detects a leak, stops the cycle and runs the drain pump. Confirmed leak codes are Samsung LC, LC1, LE or 1C, LG AE, Bosch and Siemens E23 or F23, and Miele F138 or the Waterproof message. With one of those showing, close the tap, unplug and book a visit. The water in the tray has to be found and cleared.
A leak that shows only during the spin, from the back or centre of the base, usually means water is getting past the seal on the drum shaft. That seal protects the bearings, and by the time it leaks, the bearings are being washed out.
A rumbling or roaring noise on spin that has grown over weeks.
Brown, rusty or oily streaks down the back of the outer tub, visible with the back panel off.
The drum moves up and down at its front edge when lifted by hand.
Grey marks on light-coloured washing.
A leak that is worse on fast spins and absent on gentle programmes.
Other spin-only leaksCause
From the door, low downA split at the bottom of the seal that only opens when the tub moves
From the tub's joint lineTub seal between the two halves failed, or tub clips loose
From a cracked outer tubImpact from a loose weight or a broken drum spider
Foam pushed out of the drawer or ventsExcess detergent whipped up by the spin
Bearing and tub seal replacement is the largest routine repair on a washing machine. Whether it is worth doing depends on the machine and on whether its tub can be opened. That decision is explained on our washing machine parts page. Do not keep using a machine that leaks from the back on spin. The water is falling onto the motor.
Too much detergent and overfilling
Two faults make a sound machine leak from places that are not broken: foam and too much water.
Suds expand to fill the drum and escape through the drawer, the door seal and the vent at the back. The leak is frothy and appears on washes with small or lightly soiled loads. Use less detergent, of a type made for automatic machines, and run a hot empty wash to clear the residue.
SignCause
Water level visibly high at the door glass, leaking from the door or drawerPressure switch or its air hose not sensing the level
Machine keeps filling even when switched off at its buttonInlet valve stuck open. Close the tap
Fills, pumps out and fills againThe machine has detected an overfill and is protecting itself
An overflow codeAs above
Confirmed overflow codes are Samsung OC, OE or OF, and LG FE. If water keeps entering with the machine unplugged, the valve has failed mechanically, and only closing the tap will stop it.
Top loaders have no door seal, and they leak from different places.
WhereCauseFix
Over the top of the tub, down the sidesOverloading, an unbalanced load slopping water, or overfillingSmaller, balanced loads. Level sensor if it overfills
Under the machine during the washTub seal under the agitator or pulsator, or the tub-to-pump hoseTechnician
Under the machine on drainPump, drain hose or a drain valveTechnician
At the backInlet hoses, usually two on hot and cold fill machinesWashers and hoses
From the dispensersBleach or softener cup blockedClean
Oil under the machineGearbox sealTechnician
A top loader that walks or bangs on spin can throw water over the tub rim. Balance the load and check its feet and suspension before suspecting a seal.
A puddle beside a washing machine has other possible owners. Check these before assuming the machine is at fault.
The tap or the pipework behind the machine. Dry it and watch with the machine off.
The sink trap or waste pipe in the same cabinet.
A dishwasher or water filter sharing the supply or drain.
The floor drain backing up from elsewhere in the building.
Condensation from a cold supply pipe in humid weather, which drips in a slow, even line.
An air conditioning drain line running through the same space.
A water heater above, in apartments where it sits over the laundry area.
Supply pipes, taps and shared drains in a rented or managed building are normally the landlord's or the building maintenance team's responsibility. Report them promptly.
Do not keep using a leaking machine with a towel under it. Small leaks become large ones, and water reaches the motor and electronics.
Do not patch a door seal or hose with tape, glue or sealant.
Do not over-tighten plastic hose connectors.
Do not leave the machine running when you go out or overnight until the leak is fixed.
Do not tilt the machine with water in it.
Do not ignore water in the drum when the machine is off.
When to call a technician, and what it costs
Call when the leak is from underneath or the back of the drum, when it happens on spin, when the door seal is torn, when the inlet valve will not shut, or when a leak code is showing.
RepairTypical Dubai market range, fitted
Drain hose or clampAED 100 to 200
Inlet valveAED 150 to 300
Drain pumpAED 200 to 400
Door sealAED 250 to 500
Drum bearings and tub sealAED 350 to 700, more for sealed-tub assemblies
Internal hoses, filter seal, pressure hoseGenerally at the lower end of repair prices
These are ranges published in 2026 Dubai price guides, not our price list. Our diagnostic visit is AED 100 plus VAT, with a fixed price before work starts.
Wipe the door seal and leave the door ajar after the last wash of the day.
Check pockets, and wash underwired bras and small items in a bag.
Pull out and wash the detergent drawer monthly.
Clean the pump filter every month or two, and refit it carefully.
Use the right amount of the right detergent.
Look at the inlet hoses twice a year and replace them every five years.
Secure the drain hose so it cannot jump out.
Close the tap when you travel.
The cleaning steps are set out in our guide to how to clean a washing machine.
Why is my washing machine leaking water?
+
The usual sources are the door seal, the detergent drawer, the inlet or drain hose, the pump filter and, on spin, the tub seal. Where and when the water appears tells you which.
Why is my washing machine leaking from the bottom?
+
A loose pump filter, a leaking pump, a split internal hose or, on spin, a failed tub seal with worn bearings.
Why is it leaking from the door?
+
Dirt or laundry on the seal, a torn seal, a dirty door glass, or water overflowing from the drawer above.
Why does it leak only when it spins?
+
Water is passing the tub seal on the drum shaft, the door seal has a split low down, or there is too much foam.
Why does it leak only when filling?
+
The detergent drawer is blocked, the inlet hose connection is loose or the inlet valve is cracked.
Why is there water in the drum when the machine is off?
+
The inlet valve is not closing. Keep the tap shut and have the valve replaced.
Is it safe to use a washing machine that leaks?
+
No. Water under a machine can reach the motor and wiring, and a small leak can become a flood.
Can I fix a torn door seal with glue?
+
No. It will not hold. The seal is replaced.
How often should inlet hoses be replaced?
+
About every five years, or at once if bulging, stiff or corroded.
How much does it cost to fix a leaking washing machine in Dubai?
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Published market ranges run from about AED 100 to 200 for a hose to AED 250 to 500 for a door seal. We fix the price after diagnosis.
The water is not coming from the machine. What else could it be?
+
The tap, the supply pipe, the sink trap, a shared drain or condensation on a cold pipe.
Who repairs leaking washing machines in Dubai?
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One Click Dubai sends a technician the same day. Call or WhatsApp +971 55 209 9785.
Leak from underneath or on spin?A technician can find the cause on site. The diagnostic is AED 100 plus VAT, and repairs carry a 1-month warranty.
