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Cooker and Oven Repair in Dubai: Gas and Electric, Same-Day at Home

Same-day cooker and oven repair at home across Dubai. Gas and electric, built-in ovens and range cookers, installation and gas conversion.

Reviewed by Abdul Suboor, Lead Engineer at One Click Dubai, 18 years of experience

Same day repair at your homeAED 100 diagnostic visit, plus VAT1 month warranty, parts and labour
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One Click Dubai technician repairing a built-in oven

Overview

One Click Dubai repairs cookers and ovens at home across Dubai, with same-day visits and bookings taken at any hour. Cooker repair covers gas cookers, electric cookers, cooking ranges, built-in ovens and range cookers of every brand, and every fault: not heating, not lighting, wrong temperature, a broken door, a dead display or a tripping breaker.

Our technicians work on both the electrical side and the gas side, for cylinder gas and piped gas. We keep about 90% of the parts we need in stock, and most repairs are finished in the kitchen in one visit.

This page starts with what to do if you smell gas, then explains the checks to make before booking, how gas and electric ovens fail, what each part costs in Dubai, and how cookers and ovens are installed.

Cooker and oven repair in Dubai: what we fix and what it costs

Cooker and oven repair in Dubai from One Click Dubai starts with an AED 100 diagnostic visit, plus VAT, which finds the fault. You then get the repair price and decide. Market prices run from AED 80 to AED 150 for simple repairs such as an ignition electrode or a knob, AED 150 to AED 450 for an element, thermostat or fan, and AED 400 to AED 900 for a control board.

What you want to knowOur answer
How soon can you come?The same day, and within the hour for emergencies
Gas or electric?Both. Gas cookers and ovens, electric ovens, and dual-fuel range cookers
Where is it repaired?At your home for most faults. In our workshop for some jobs, by agreement
What does the visit cost?AED 100 plus VAT for the diagnostic. No surcharge at night or at weekends
Do you have the parts?About 90% are in stock. If one must be ordered, you hear the arrival date first
Do you install and convert?Yes. Electric ovens and gas cookers installed, and cookers converted between cylinder and piped gas
Is the repair covered?Yes, by a one-month warranty on parts and labour

If the appliance is inside the maker's warranty, contact the maker first.

If you smell gas: what to do first

If you smell gas near a cooker, stop and make the kitchen safe before thinking about repair. Close the gas, air the room, and keep every flame and switch off until the smell has gone.

1
Turn off the gas

Close the valve on the cylinder, or the isolation valve on the wall or under the worktop for piped gas. Turn all the cooker knobs to off.

2
Open doors and windows

Let the gas clear. Cylinder gas is heavier than air and collects at floor level and in low cupboards.

3
Do not make a spark

No flames, no lighters, no smoking. Do not switch lights, the extractor or any appliance on or off, and do not unplug anything.

4
Leave if the smell is strong

Get everyone out and call from outside. Dubai Civil Defence is on 997. In a building with piped gas, tell the building security or management as well.

5
Do not turn the gas back on

Until a technician has found the leak and tested the connection.

A faint smell for a second or two as a burner lights is normal. A smell with everything turned off is not. We check hoses, regulators, valves and joints with leak-detection fluid, and never with a flame.

Five checks before you book

Five checks settle many oven not working calls without a visit: the power supply, the clock, the function knob, the gas supply and the door. They take a few minutes.

1
Power

An electric oven usually has its own breaker in the distribution board and a wall switch near the cooker, often with a red light. Check both. A gas cooker still needs power for its spark and its light.

2
The clock and timer

Many ovens will not heat until the clock is set after a power cut, or while the timer is in automatic mode. A flashing display or a letter A means it is waiting. Set the time, or press the manual button, shown by a hand or pot symbol on many models.

3
Function and temperature

Both knobs must be set. A function that lights only the lamp or runs only the fan gives no heat.

4
Gas supply

Is the cylinder empty? Is the valve open? Do the hob burners light? If nothing on a gas cooker lights, the fault is the supply and not the oven.

5
Child lock and demo mode

A key symbol means the controls are locked. Demo mode lights the display and heats nothing. The manual gives the buttons to cancel each.

If the breaker trips when the oven is switched on, leave it off. A failed heating element leaking current to earth is the usual cause, and resetting the breaker repeatedly does not help.

Oven and cooker problems we repair, by symptom

Most oven and cooker faults show up as one of twelve symptoms. The table gives the usual causes for electric and gas appliances side by side, since the same symptom has different causes in each.

What you noticeElectric oven: usual causeGas oven or cooker: usual cause
Oven not heating at allElement failed, thermostat, selector switch, thermal cut-out, clock in auto modeIgniter not sparking, thermocouple, safety valve, no gas
Heats slowly, or not hot enoughOne of two elements failed, fan not running, door sealPartly blocked burner or jet, low gas pressure, door seal
Too hot, burns foodThermostat or temperature sensorThermostat, or wrong jets after a gas conversion
Uneven bakingFan motor, one element out, door sealBurner ports blocked on one side, door seal
Grill works, oven does not, or the reverseThe element for that function has failedThat burner's igniter or thermocouple
Lights, then goes out when the knob is releasedNot applicableThermocouple or flame-failure device
Clicking without lightingNot applicableDirty or cracked electrode, wet igniter, blocked burner
Trips the breakerElement leaking to earth, damaged wiring, moistureShorted igniter switch, or the oven lamp
Dead: no light, no displayPower supply, terminal block burnt, control boardPower supply for the spark and controls
Display works, buttons do notTouch panel or control board, control lockSame
Door will not close, or drops openHingesHinges
Noisy fan, or fan runs after switch-offFan motor bearings. The cooling fan running on after use is normalSame on fan-assisted models

Electric oven not heating

An electric oven not heating has usually lost a heating element. A fan oven has a circular element round the fan at the back, and a conventional oven has one in the base and one in the roof, which is also the grill. When one burns out, that function stops, and the other functions carry on.

What happensLikely causeRepair
Fan runs, light on, no heat on fan settingFan element burnt outElement replaced
Grill works, oven does notBase or fan element failedElement replaced
Oven warms slowly and never reaches temperatureOne element of two has failed, or the fan motor has stoppedElement or motor replaced
Nothing heats, light and fan workThermostat, selector switch or thermal cut-outTested with a meter, failed part replaced
Nothing at allSupply, terminal block, clock or control boardSupply and board tested
Heats, then cuts out after a whileCooling fan failed, so the safety cut-out tripsCooling fan replaced
Trips the breaker at once, or when hotElement insulation broken downElement replaced

What you can see

A blister, a split or a burnt patch on an element.
An element that stays dark when the others glow.
Scorch marks on the back panel near the element's terminals.

An element is a straightforward repair when the part is in stock. The thermostat and the cut-out are tested at the same time, because an element sometimes fails as a result of one of them sticking. An oven with a burnt terminal block at the back, where the mains cable joins, needs the block and often the cable end replaced.

Gas oven not heating or not lighting

A gas oven not heating either is not lighting or is lighting and going out. Lighting needs three things: gas at the burner, a spark, and a flame-failure device that senses the flame and holds the gas valve open. Each fails in its own recognisable way.

What happensLikely causeRepair
No clicking, no sparkNo power to the igniter, failed spark generator, failed ignition switchSupply checked, generator or switch replaced
Clicks and sparks, will not lightElectrode dirty, cracked or out of position, burner ports blocked, no gasElectrode cleaned, repositioned or replaced. Burner cleaned
Lights, goes out when you let go of the knobThermocouple worn or loose, or the safety valve's magnet failedThermocouple or valve replaced
Lights, flame small or unevenBurner ports or jet partly blocked, low pressure, regulator faultBurner and jet cleaned. Regulator checked
Yellow, sooty flameWrong air mix, blocked ports, or wrong jets for the gasCleaned and adjusted. Jets checked
Clicks continuously after lightingWater or grease in an ignition switchSwitch dried or replaced
Hob lights, oven does notOven igniter, oven thermocouple or oven thermostat valveTested in turn

Holding the knob

On most gas ovens you push the knob in, light the burner, and keep the knob pressed for five to ten seconds while the thermocouple heats. Letting go too soon makes the flame go out, and that is how the safety device is meant to work. If it goes out after a full fifteen seconds, the thermocouple or valve is faulty.

Do not relight repeatedly without airing the oven. Open the door and wait a minute between attempts, so unburnt gas clears.

Oven temperature wrong: burning, undercooking and uneven baking

An oven that burns or undercooks food has a temperature fault, an airflow fault or a door that is leaking heat. You can measure which with an oven thermometer, a small dial or probe that sits on the shelf and costs very little.

How to check

1
Place the thermometer

On the middle shelf, in the centre.

2
Set 180°C and wait

Let the oven heat for at least twenty minutes after it says it is ready.

3
Read it several times

Every oven swings above and below its setting as the heat cycles. Take three or four readings over fifteen minutes and average them.

4
Compare

An average within about 10 to 15°C of the setting is normal. A steady error of 25°C or more is a fault.

FindingLikely cause
Runs much hotter than setThermostat or temperature sensor
Runs cooler, slow to heatA failed element, a weak burner, or a door seal leaking
Correct in the centre, burns at the back or one sideFan not turning, or blocked burner ports on a gas oven
Fine at first, falls away during cookingElement failing when hot, or cooling fan fault
Bottoms burn, tops paleWrong function chosen, tray on the oven floor, or the top element out

Foil on the oven floor, and trays that fill the whole shelf, block the air and cause uneven baking in a healthy oven.

Oven door, hinge, glass and seal repair

Oven door repair covers four parts: the hinges that carry the door, the glass panels, the seal round the opening, and the handle. A door that does not close fully leaks heat, lengthens cooking and overheats the control knobs above it.

ProblemCauseRepair
Door drops open, or will not stay ajarHinge springs wornHinges replaced as a pair
Door will not close flushBent hinge, hinge not seated in its slot, or a shelf sitting forwardHinge reseated or replaced
Inner glass loose or fallenGlass adhesive or clips failedGlass refitted with heat-proof adhesive, or clips replaced
Glass cracked or shatteredImpact, a chip at the edge, or a sudden change of temperaturePanel replaced with glass made for the model
Seal torn, flattened or hangingAge, or caught in the doorSeal replaced
Handle loose or brokenScrews behind the inner glass have loosened, or the handle has crackedTightened or replaced
Door locked after a self-clean cycleLock motor or its switchLock released and repaired

Oven door glass is toughened and cut to the model, so we order it by model number. Do not use an oven with a cracked inner or outer panel: toughened glass can shatter completely without warning.

Top oven or grill works, but the bottom oven does not

On a double oven or a cooker with two cavities, each oven has its own elements or burner, its own thermostat and its own selector. When the bottom oven is not working but the top is, the fault is in the bottom oven's own parts, most often its element or its igniter, and the rest of the cooker is fine.

Top oven and grill work, main oven cold. main oven element, thermostat or selector switch.
Main oven works, grill does not. grill element, or the grill's switch.
Neither oven heats, hob works. the clock is in automatic mode, or the oven supply inside the cooker has failed.
Nothing works. the cooker's supply or its terminal block.

Oven and cooker parts we repair and replace

Ten parts account for most oven and cooker repairs in Dubai. The prices are 2026 market ranges published by companies in the city, before VAT, and show what the market charges. They are not our fixed price list.

PartWhat it doesSigns it has failedTypical Dubai market price (AED)
Heating elementHeats an electric oven or grillNo heat on one function, visible burn, tripping150 to 450
Thermostat or temperature sensorHolds the set temperatureToo hot, too cool, or no heat150 to 450
Fan motorCirculates heat in a fan ovenUneven cooking, noise, no fan200 to 400
Cooling fanKeeps the controls and cabinet coolOven cuts out when hot, knobs too hot to touch200 to 400
Gas igniter or electrodeLights the burnerClicking with no flame, or no spark80 to 280
Thermocouple or flame-failure deviceShuts the gas if the flame goes outFlame dies when the knob is releasedQuoted by model
Selector switch and knobsChoose the function and temperatureA function that will not select, loose or broken knob80 to 150 for knobs. Switches quoted by model
Clock, timer or control boardRuns the programme and displayDead or frozen display, oven stuck in auto, random faults400 to 900
Door hinges, glass and sealClose and insulate the doorDoor drops, heat leaks, cracked glassQuoted by model
Gas valve, regulator and hoseControl and deliver the gasWeak flame, smell of gas, stiff or loose knobQuoted by model

Parts for built-in ovens from Bosch, Siemens, Neff, Gaggenau, Miele and Smeg usually sit at the upper end.

Gas cooker repair

Gas cooker repair covers the hob burners, the oven and grill burners, the ignition, the control valves, and the connection to the gas: the hose and the regulator. We work on cookers that run on cylinder gas and on piped gas from a building's central system.

Burners. caps and rings cleaned and seated, ports cleared, jets cleaned or replaced.
Ignition. electrodes, spark generator and the switches behind each knob.
Control valves. stiff, loose or leaking valves regreased or replaced.
Flame-failure devices. thermocouples and safety valves on the oven, and on the hob where fitted.
Regulator. replaced when the flame is weak on every burner, or surges.
Hose. replaced when cracked, hardened, kinked or past the date printed on it, and always with new clips.

What a healthy flame looks like

Blue, steady and even all the way round the burner, with perhaps a small yellow tip. Yellow or orange flames that leave soot on pans mean the burner is dirty, the air mix is wrong, or the jets do not match the gas.

Converting between cylinder gas and piped gas

Cylinder gas (LPG) and piped natural gas need different jets, because they burn at different pressures. A cooker moved from one to the other, without conversion, either roars with tall yellow flames or barely lights. We change the jets on every burner, adjust the low-flame setting, fit the correct regulator and test each burner.

For faults on the hob alone, see gas stove repair.

By type: built-in oven, freestanding cooker, range cooker, double and steam ovens

The type of appliance decides how it is reached and which parts it has. A freestanding cooker is pulled forward. A built-in oven is unscrewed from its housing and slid out onto a support, with the power off.

TypeCommon faultsPoints to know
Built-in electric ovenFan element, fan motor, thermostat, clock, door hingesThe most common oven in Dubai flats. Needs air gaps in the housing, or it overheats
Freestanding gas cookerIgniters, thermocouples, burner blockages, knobs, hose and regulatorCommon in villas and older flats. Check the anti-tilt fixing
Freestanding electric cookerOven and grill elements, hob elements, switches, terminal blockDraws a high current. A burnt terminal block is frequent
Cooking range or range cooker, 90 cm and widerSeveral burners, one or two ovens, often dual fuelGas hob with electric ovens. Both sides are checked
Double ovenEach cavity fails independentlyTell us which oven has the fault
Steam and combination ovensScale in the steam generator, water pump, sensorsDescaling to the maker's schedule prevents most faults
Pyrolytic self-cleaning ovensDoor lock, temperature sensor, blown thermal fuse after a clean cycleThe high-heat clean cycle is hard on older ovens

Cooker and oven repair cost in Dubai

Cooker and oven repair cost in Dubai is typically AED 80 to AED 450 for the common faults and AED 400 to AED 900 for a control board. Our diagnostic visit is AED 100 plus VAT. The ranges are 2026 market prices published by companies in the city.

JobTypical Dubai market range (AED)
Simple repairs: burner cleaning, ignition electrode, knob80 to 150
Temperature fault, calibration100 to 250
Not heating: element or thermostat150 to 450
Gas igniter150 to 280
Fan motor200 to 400
Will not power on, basic fault80 to 200
Control board400 to 900

Door glass, hinges, gas valves and thermocouples are priced by model, so we quote those once we have the model number.

Repair or replace?

Repair an oven or cooker when the repair costs less than about half the price of a comparable new one. Ovens are simple machines and last well, so most faults are worth fixing. Replace when the cavity or the burners have rusted through, or when a board is no longer made.

SituationUsually better to
Element, thermostat, fan, igniter, thermocouple, hinges or seal, any ageRepair
Control board or clock, appliance under ten yearsRepair
Control board on an old appliance, part no longer availableReplace
Cracked door glassRepair, if the panel is available
Rusted oven floor, corroded burners, perished enamelReplace
Third fault within two yearsCompare both prices

A built-in oven is sized to its cabinet. Before replacing one, measure the housing, since a new model may not fit the old cut-out.

Oven and cooker installation

We install electric ovens, gas cookers and dual-fuel range cookers. An electric oven needs the right electrical supply and ventilation in its housing. A gas cooker needs a sound hose and regulator, a leak test and an anti-tilt fixing.

Electric oven installation

1
Check the supply

The oven's rating plate gives its power in kilowatts. Smaller ovens may run from a plug. Most built-in ovens and all electric cookers need their own circuit from the distribution board, with a breaker and cable sized to the rating and an isolating switch near the appliance.

2
Check the housing

The cut-out must match the maker's dimensions, with the ventilation gaps the manual shows at the back and the base.

3
Connect

The cable is connected at the oven's terminal block and clamped, with a proper earth.

4
Fix and test

The oven is screwed to the housing through the side trims, and each function is run.

Gas cooker installation

1
Position and level

The cooker is levelled on its feet, so pans sit flat and the oven shelves are true.

2
Fix against tipping

A freestanding cooker is chained or bracketed to the wall, so it cannot tip if weight is put on the open door.

3
Connect the gas

A new hose of the correct type and length, with clips, and the regulator that matches the gas.

4
Leak test

Every joint is tested with leak-detection fluid, with the gas on.

5
Flame check

Each burner is lit and checked on high and low. The flame-failure devices are tested by blowing a flame out and confirming the gas shuts.

If the kitchen has no cooker circuit or no gas point, tell us when you book. A new circuit can be run by our technicians, so you do not need a separate electrician to fit the oven. A new piped-gas point has to be provided by the building's gas company.

Commercial oven repair

We repair commercial ovens for restaurants, bakeries, cafes and catering kitchens: convection ovens, combination ovens, deck and pizza ovens, and commercial ranges. A stopped oven stops the menu, so these calls are given priority.

Electric. elements, contactors, thermostats and controllers, fan motors, door seals and hinges.
Gas. burners, pilot and ignition systems, thermocouples, gas valves, and flame adjustment.
Combination ovens. steam generation, descaling, door gaskets and probes.
Regular oven maintenance. door seals, burner cleaning and temperature checks on a schedule.

For extraction faults above the cooking line, see commercial kitchen exhaust hood repair.

Hobs, stoves and cooktops

A fault on the hob alone, with the oven working, has its own pages: gas stove repair, electric stove repair, induction hob repair and glass cooktop replacement. The stove and hob repair page covers them together.

Oven and cooker brands we repair

We repair every oven and cooker brand sold in the UAE, including Bosch, Siemens, Neff, Gaggenau, Miele, Smeg, Ariston, Indesit, Whirlpool, Electrolux, AEG, Zanussi, Beko, Teka, Samsung, LG, Glem Gas, La Germania, Bompani and Super General.

Send the model number from the rating plate, usually on the frame inside the oven door, so the right parts come with the technician.

Cooker repair near me: areas we cover

If you are searching for cooker repair near me or oven repair near me in Dubai, our technicians travel from Al Quoz to every district, so the cooker is repaired in your kitchen and not carried to a repair shop.

We cover Dubai Marina, JBR, JLT, Palm Jumeirah, Downtown, Business Bay, Jumeirah, Al Barsha, Dubai Hills, Arabian Ranches, JVC, Mirdif, Dubai Silicon Oasis, Deira, Bur Dubai, Karama and Al Qusais.

Frequently asked questions

How long does an oven repair take?

Most repairs take about an hour. A built-in oven takes a little longer, because it has to come out of its housing.

Why did my oven stop working after a power cut?

The clock needs setting. Many ovens will not heat until it is. Set the time and choose manual mode.

Is it safe to use the oven if the door glass is cracked?

No. Toughened glass can shatter suddenly once it is cracked. Leave the oven off until the panel is replaced.

Why does my oven smell of burning?

Spilt food on the floor or the element is the usual cause. A new oven also smells for its first few uses. A smell of hot plastic or wiring means switch off and book a visit.

Why does the fan keep running after I switch the oven off?

That is the cooling fan protecting the controls and cabinet. It stops when the oven has cooled.

Can I replace an oven element myself?

It is mains wiring inside a metal case. It should be done with the supply isolated and tested, by someone qualified.

My gas oven lights, then goes out. Is it dangerous?

The safety device is doing its job by shutting the gas. It needs a new thermocouple or valve. Air the oven between attempts.

How often should a gas hose be changed?

Check the date printed on the hose and replace it by then, or sooner if it is cracked, stiff or kinked.

Do you repair cookers bought outside the UAE?

Usually, yes. Parts may need ordering, and a gas cooker may need its jets checked for the local gas.

Do you repair the hob on the same visit?

Yes. Tell us about both faults when you book.

Book a cooker or oven repair in Dubai

To book, use the online form, send a WhatsApp message or call +971 55 209 9785. Tell us whether the appliance is gas or electric, the brand and model, and what it is doing.

If there is a smell of gas, close the supply and say so when you call.

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